Dates: June 20 - July 4, 2025

Leaders: David Ascanio & Local Leader

E-bird

Total Species: 224 birds

Click Here to view list.

Overall Summary

We landed in what seemed to be an endless landscape, stretching as far as the eye could see, mostly flat with some hills. Our dinner in Cuiabá was a welcoming introduction to Brazil’s famous churrascaria, where we could eat virtually all we wanted—a bounty that anticipated the richness of what we would see and experience in the days to come. Welcome to the land of abundance: welcome to the Pantanal!

Our trip of a lifetime started with the short drive from Cuiabá to Pousada Piuval, in the upper Pantanal, covered by tropical dry forest and scattered but still impressive wetlands. Right in front of the lodge, we were able to enjoy such unique birds as the Plumbeous Ibis, Pied Plover, Large-billed Tern, Jabiru, and Cocoi Heron. Passerine species also showed up in numbers, allowing us to tick off the Yellow-billed Cardinal, Chopi Blackbird, and Rufous-bellied Thrush. A real highlight came on the second afternoon, when a sudden strong wind induced an impressive number of Nacunda Nighthawks to take off from the ground.

A full day at Piuval Ranch allowed us to admire the beauty and elegance of the Red-legged Seriema, the grandeur of the Greater Rhea, the oddness of the Guira Cuckoo, and the beauty of the Hyacinth Macaw. Any of those birds alone would have made the tour a success, but it is the cumulative effect of so many superlatives that makes the Pantanal so special.

From Piuval Ranch, we headed south to another property where wildlife conservation is a priority. Under the leadership of the famous ornithologist Charlie Munn, Fazenda Santa Tereza has become a landmark in Pantanal wildlife watching. Scarcely had we arrived when we were already spotting Marsh Deer, the largest cervid in South America, threatened by habitat loss. Over two full days in this wildlife Shangri-la, we added an impressive number of birds to our tally, eloquent testimony to the importance of this sanctuary.

A good indicator of habitat health in this part of the world is the presence of birds in the family Cracidae, comprising curassows, guans, and chachalacas. Members of these groups are among the first to disappear when their habitat is subjected to hunting or slash-and-burn agriculture. Here at Santa Tereza, though, we observed not one and not two, but five species of cracids: Chaco Chachalaca, Chestnut-bellied Guan, White-throated and Red-throated piping-guans, and Bare-faced Curassow, a species whose female I call “the love of my life.”

From Santa Tereza, we continued south to the location known as Jaguarland. The road itself presented a waterbird spectacle, with views of four species of ibis (Green, Bare-faced, Plumbeous, and Buff-necked) and ten species of egrets and herons. We also found a wonderful Sunbittern and enjoyed the astonishing rosette pattern of its wings in flight.

Our days in Jaguarland were a bit challenging, since a cold front had hit the area and wildlife activity had dropped. On the positive side, this meant that we were spared the infamous extreme heat of the Pantanal. We had three full days to visit channels, rivers, and gallery forest. Despite the chill, these habitats gave us superb views of the Bicolored Hawk, Blue-crowned Parakeet, and White, Little, and Golden-green woodpeckers. The most spectacular of all might have been the male Helmeted Manakin, a sighting that will remain a very special moment even if other memories fade with time.

Birds, of course, weren’t the only reason to join this Pantanal mega-tour. Mammals provided great encounters as well. On one of our afternoons, we were astonished to see a tapir walking right in front of us. Later, in Jaguarland itself, we were lucky to have several encounters with the Giant Otter, an awesome experience. And there was more. On one cold afternoon, we took a long boat ride up the Pixaim River, where we observed the secretive and little-known Maned Wolf (a video of this encounter is at instagram.com/reel/DLnsnibuajm/?igsh=ZzY3aWJlZWVieGo1).

Of course, we had come to the Pantanal to see Jaguars, and see them we did! We saw the couple known as Amber and Browser, Shy, another pair growling and mating, and the female called Ofelia. Best of all was the end of our last day. As we were heading back to the Floating Hotel, Liko stopped the boat and pointed at the riverbank. Yes, there was a resting male Jaguar, closing out—or so we thought—a day of magical encounters. But the magic continued after dinner, when Liko confirmed that this individual had not been reported before in the study area and that we consequently had the right to name him. We spent the night considering the options. The next morning, we had a decision: we voted unanimously to call him Victor, in honor of Victor Emanuel, VENT’s founder and a tireless conservationist who helped many people around the world protect birds and their habitats.

Our encounter with the newly named Victor exceeded all our expectations for this tour. Not only had we seen Jaguars, otters, a tapir, an Ocelot, and even a Maned Wolf, but we were also able to leave behind the imprint of a friend, a colleague, and a model conservationist.

We headed back to Santa Tereza for one more night, then continued the next day to Cuiabá. Along the road, we witnessed another miracle: a Giant Anteater foraging in the grasslands amid scattered trees. With that experience impressed upon our memories, we completed our return journey secure in the conviction that we had visited a biome like none other on Earth. I am sure you will agree that the memories of this trip will stay with us for years to come.

Day-by-Day Summary

June 20 - We arrived in Cuiabá and enjoyed a welcome dinner at a traditional Brazilian churrascaria. Overnight in Cuiabá.

June 21 - We drove into the upper Pantanal. Afternoon birding around Pousada Piuval produced sightings of Jabiru, Cocoi Heron, Plumbeous Ibis, and other wetland species.

June 22 - We spent a full day exploring Piuval Ranch. Highlights included Red-legged Seriema, Greater Rhea, Guira Cuckoo, Hyacinth Macaw, and a dramatic flight of Nacunda Nighthawks.

June 23 - We traveled south to Fazenda Santa Tereza, a premier wildlife sanctuary. We spotted Marsh Deer soon after arrival along with excellent bird activity.

June 24 - We spent a full day exploring Santa Tereza’s forests and wetlands. Outstanding cracid diversity included Bare-faced Curassow, piping-guans, and Chaco Chachalaca.

June 25 - We continued birding and wildlife watching around the reserve, enjoying exceptional opportunities for photography and observation of Pantanal specialties.

June 26 - We journeyed south toward Jaguarland. En route, we observed multiple ibis and heron species as well as a spectacular Sunbittern in flight.

June 27 - We explored channels and gallery forests by boat. Highlights included Bicolored Hawk, Blue-crowned Parakeet, and several woodpecker species.

June 28 - We continued our exploration despite cool weather conditions. A special highlight was unforgettable views of a male Helmeted Manakin.

June 29 - We enjoyed excellent mammal encounters, including Giant Otters and a tapir. A boat trip along the Pixaim River also produced views of a Maned Wolf.

June 30 - We dedicated the day to searching for Jaguars and succeeded with sightings of Amber and Browser, Shy, Ofelia, and additional Jaguars along the riverbanks.

July 1 - Our final Jaguar outing culminated in the discovery of a previously undocumented male Jaguar, later named “Victor” in honor of Victor Emanuel.

July 2 - We traveled back north to Santa Tereza for a final evening in the Pantanal, reflecting on the extraordinary wildlife encounters of the trip.

July 3 - We returned to Cuiabá. Along the way, we enjoyed memorable sightings of a Giant Anteater foraging in the grasslands.

July 4 - We departed for our flights home, concluding an unforgettable Pantanal adventure filled with extraordinary birds, mammals, and conservation stories.

Wildlife Seen: 

MAMMALS:

Six-banded Armadillo (Euphractus sexcinctus), 

Giant Anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla), 

Azara's Capuchin (Sapajus cay), 

Black Howler-Monkey (Alouatta caraya), 

Black-tailed Marmoset (Callithrix melanurus), 

Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris), 

Azara's Agouti (Dasyprocta azarae), 

Tropical Cottontail (Sylvilagus brasiliensis), 

Greater Bulldog Bat (Noctilio leporinus), 

Ocelot (Leopardus pardalis), 

Jaguar (Panthera onca), 

Crab-eating Fox (Cerdocyon thous), 

Manned Wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus), 

Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis), 

Brazilian Tapir (Tapirus terrestris), 

Marsh Deer (Blastocerus dichotomus), 

Red-brocket Deer (Mazama americana). 

Gallery