Dates: November 1 - 11, 2025

Leaders: Doris Valencia & Andrew Whittaker

E-bird

Total Species: 275 birds

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Overall Summary

Our journey through northern Peru began with a smooth one-and-a-half-hour flight from Lima to the Amazonian city of Tarapoto, where the warm air and lush green hills welcomed us into the tropics. Upon arrival, we met our two drivers, our reliable companions for the rest of the tour, then stocked up on essential snacks and water before beginning the 2-hour and 20-minute drive to our first lodge, located in the Andean foothills at 2,950 ft. 

Along the way, we made a memorable stop at what is perhaps the most accessible colony of the unique Oilbird, the world’s only nocturnal, fruit-eating bird. Several pairs rested calmly on rocky ledges inside a remarkable formation of crevices and natural fissures. Observing these strange birds, who navigate the night with echolocation while searching for fruits like palm nuts and wild avocados, was an early highlight that set the tone for the trip. We arrived at the lodge around lunchtime, settled into our cabins, and enjoyed a delicious meal before taking a well-deserved break. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the lodge gardens, where we recorded an incredible 12 species of hummingbirds—a fantastic welcome to the region. Colorful tanagers, honeycreepers, dacnises, oropendolas, parrots, and many others kept the excitement going. 

In the following days, we continued birding in the Andean foothills, including a visit to a nearby reserve where we had excellent views of Rufous-sided Crake and the critically endangered San Martín Titi Monkey. We also enjoyed encounters with several sought-after endemics, such as Black-bellied Tanager and the very localized Burnished-buff Tanager. 
Our exploration then took us deep into the Alto Mayo Reserve, a vast protected area of more than 450,000 acres that shelters pristine cloud forest, moist pre-montane forest, and distinctive white-sand forest. We visited some of northern Peru’s premier birding sites, including Abra Patricia (Owlet Lodge) and the Alto Nieva reserves. We spent several days birding along the road at various elevations, where we were treated to superb views of tanagers, hummingbirds, flycatchers, quetzals, parrots, and many other forest treasures. The landscape itself was as striking as the wildlife—lush green forest draped in bromeliads, tree ferns, and a wonderful diversity of orchids. 

One of our most unforgettable days was spent in the Utcubamba Valley. There, we were surprised by a flock of more than 40 Peruvian Pigeons, likely the largest group I’ve ever encountered. The valley, carved by the Utcubamba River, was once home to the pre-Inca Chachapoya civilization, the legendary “People of the Clouds.” Our main objective was the marvelous Peruvian endemic Marvelous Spatuletail, one of the world’s most extraordinary hummingbirds. This species has only four tail feathers, two of which end in violet-blue racquet-shaped spatules that the male lifts and swings with precision during display flights. We were lucky to enjoy multiple outstanding views of two males and two females, an experience that will remain etched in our memories. Afterward, we enjoyed a delicious lunch overlooking the Gocta Falls, the third tallest waterfall in Peru, a breathtaking landscape that provided the perfect backdrop to an already spectacular day. 

In the days that followed, our luck continued with fantastic views of the Peruvian endemics Chestnut Antpitta and Rusty-tinged Antpitta, thanks to the skilled “antpitta whisperers” who have spent years patiently habituating these famously elusive birds. 

After several nights of light showers, we were finally gifted with a perfectly clear evening and with it, one of the most extraordinary moments of the entire trip. That particular night, we were treated to unforgettable views of one of Peru’s most enigmatic and range-restricted endemics: the one and only Long-whiskered Owlet. This species is so unique that it occupies its own genus, Xenoglaux, meaning “strange owl,” and bears the name loweryi in honor of George Lowery, founder of the LSU Museum of Natural Science. Discovered in 1976 during an LSU expedition, the bird then vanished from the ornithological radar for decades; its voice wasn’t recorded until 2002, and the first modern sightings came only between 2007 and 2010. Even today it remains rare, elusive, and confined to a very limited area. That night, however, everything aligned; we were incredibly fortunate to watch one perched calmly for several minutes, giving us exceptional views. It was a magical, almost surreal encounter, one that everyone savored to the fullest and will surely remember for years to come. 

We also dedicated one morning to birding a lagoon near Tarapoto, where we found various duck species, an Osprey, the strange and charismatic Hoatzin, and several other surprises that enriched our already long trip list.  Beyond the birding itself, our journey was filled with warm hospitality, excellent meals, and wonderful company. By the end of the tour, we had recorded an impressive 275 species, an outstanding total that reflects the richness and diversity of northern Peru. 

Day-by-Day Summary

November 1 - Arrived in Tarapoto after a short flight from Lima and drove to our first lodge in the Andean foothills. Along the way, we enjoyed unforgettable views of the remarkable Oilbird at a roadside colony. Afternoon birding around the lodge produced 12 species of hummingbirds and many colorful tropical birds.

November 2 - Explored the Andean foothills and nearby reserves, where we had excellent views of Rufous-sided Crake and the critically endangered San Martín Titi Monkey. Endemic highlights included Black-bellied Tanager and Burnished-buff Tanager.

November 3 - Continued birding in foothill forests, enjoying a rich diversity of tanagers, parrots, hummingbirds, and flycatchers while traveling deeper into the Alto Mayo region.

November 4 - Entered the spectacular Alto Mayo Reserve, exploring lush cloud forests filled with orchids, bromeliads, and tree ferns. Birding along the roadsides produced many memorable encounters with hummingbirds and mixed flocks.

November 5 - Visited renowned birding sites around Abra Patricia and Alto Nieva, where we enjoyed excellent views of quetzals, parrots, flycatchers, and several regional specialties.

November 6 - Spent a spectacular day in the Utcubamba Valley, highlighted by incredible views of the endemic Marvelous Spatuletail. We also admired the dramatic scenery around Gocta Falls during lunch.

November 7 - Focused on elusive antpittas and were rewarded with amazing close views of the endemic Chestnut Antpitta and Rusty-tinged Antpitta thanks to local “antpitta whisperers.”

November 8 - Continued birding through the cloud forests of northern Peru, enjoying more encounters with tanagers, hummingbirds, and forest species across different elevations.

November 9 - After several rainy evenings, clear skies finally arrived and brought one of the trip’s greatest highlights: unforgettable views of the rare and mysterious Long-whiskered Owlet perched calmly in the forest.

November 10 - Returned toward Tarapoto and spent the morning birding a nearby lagoon, where we observed ducks, Osprey, the unusual Hoatzin, and many additional wetland species.

November 11 - Concluded our northern Peru adventure after an incredible journey filled with excellent birding, beautiful landscapes, warm hospitality, and wonderful company. By the end of the tour, we had recorded an impressive 275 bird species.

Wildlife Seen: 

MAMMALS:

San Martin Titi Monkey (Callicebus oenanthe) 

Saddle-back Tamarin (Saguinis fuscicollis) 

RODENTS: 

Black Agouti (Dasyprocta fuliginosa) 

BUTTERFLIES: 

Owl butterfly (Caligo telamonius) 

Many-banded Daggerwing (Marpesia chiron) 

ORCHIDS: 

Phragmipedium kovachi 

Cattleya rex 

Gallery