Dates: November 11 - 20, 2025

Leaders: Michael O'Brien, Louise Zemaitis, Mark Garland

E-bird

Total Species: 65 birds

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Overall Summary

The enchanting Galapagos Islands are among the most magical places on earth, and a wonderland of discovery for the astute naturalist. Lying some 600 miles off mainland Ecuador has given life here the chance to evolve in its own direction. The unusual animals of this special place showcase how evolution works in an isolated environment. As an added bonus, a ruggedly beautiful coastline, tranquil beaches and lagoons, and interesting geologic history, coupled with delightful weather and abundant and approachable wildlife make the Galapagos Islands about as close to eutopia as one could imagine. Our visit to these otherworldly islands aboard the M/Y Coral I was fascinating, enchanting, and also a lot of fun! 

As soon as we arrived in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, we were greeted by some of the wildlife that makes the Galapagos famous: Galapagos Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, and Sally Lightfoot Crabs right at the dock; Blue-footed Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Lava Gulls (one of the rarest gulls in the world), and Elliott’s Storm-Petrels flying around the harbor. We were also greeted by our first “Darwin’s Finch” (actually in the tanager family), the Small Ground-Finch. Even though they behaved a bit like House Sparrows when near humans, it was a special feeling knowing we were seeing a species that is found nowhere else on earth. In those first encounters, we experienced one of the more unique aspects of Galapagos wildlife—having evolved with no land predators, resident species are completely unafraid of humans! 

The diversity of life at the Galapagos was at least as rich underwater as it was above, and snorkelers had a field day on this trip. At every opportunity, several group members donned their masks and flippers and took to the water. Along with scores of dazzling reef fish, sea urchins, sea stars, and more, the snorkelers regularly had such interesting swimming companions as rays, sea turtles, and playful sea lions. A post-swim dip in the Jacuzzi on deck was always accompanied by stories of close encounters with amazing marine life. 

Our explorations took us to six major islands, each one unique and with its own endemic species. At San Cristobal, we sailed past the famous “Kicker Rock” and had our first taste of the abundance of seabirds we would quickly grow accustomed to in the Galapagos. Galapagos Shearwaters, Elliott’s Storm-Petrels, Magnificent and Great frigatebirds, Nazca and Blue-footed boobies, and Brown Noddies all gave us ample opportunity to learn some of the signature birds of these islands. At Punta Pitt, we enjoyed thousands of birds concentrated around the tiny Pitt Rock, including dozens of spectacular Swallow-tailed Gulls, courting Red-billed Tropicbirds, and many nesting Nazca and Red-footed boobies. Hikers had fine vistas from the cliffs above, and many up-close nesting birds. 

At Espanola, we had an epic visit to Punta Suarez, where a colony of Waved Albatross stole the show. These giant birds were constantly sailing overhead or resting in flocks offshore, and several pairs were performing their elaborate head-swaying, bill-clacking courtship dance while their large chicks sat nearby. Meanwhile, Nazca Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gulls, Galapagos Doves, and a family group of Galapagos Hawks were just feet away; Red-billed Tropicbirds were sailing overhead; and red and green “Christmas” Marine Iguanas were lying all around. Brazen Espanola Mockingbirds were eyeing us up for any possible benefit, and three finch species showed no competition with each other as each focused on its own preferred food source. Most surprising of all was the rare sight of a Brown-chested Martin foraging overhead, at times joined by a Galapagos Martin. Although widespread in mainland South America, this was just the second record of Brown-chested Martin for the Galapagos! 

At Floreana, we made an essential stop at the famed Post Office Bay, where we sent and picked up post cards, watched the Coral I and Coral II crews play volleyball, and enjoyed some confiding finches, Mangrove Yellow Warblers, and Galapagos Flycatchers. We also made a special panga ride around Champion Island and succeeded in finding the extremely rare Floreana Mockingbird. This species was once found throughout Floreana but was extirpated more than a century ago, likely due to destruction of the Galapagos Prickly Pear (its preferred food source) by introduced goats, and nest predation by introduced rats, cats, dogs, and mice. It now occurs only on two very small mammal-free islands (Champion and Gardiner) and has a total world population of just a few hundred individuals. 

Our day on Santa Cruz began at the Charles Darwin Research Station, where we learned about this organization’s highly successful captive breeding and reintroduction program for the various populations of Galapagos Giant Tortoises. We also found six species of finches including Vegetarian Finch, Large Ground-Finch, and Common Cactus-Finch. Later, we visited the highlands at Rancho El Chato II. Here, we had the privilege to walk among many Galapagos Giant Tortoises and also found numerous finches, including excellent views of the charismatic and distinctive Woodpecker Finch! To cap off an already fantastic day, as we were cruising north from Santa Cruz, we enjoyed some nice seabirds including Galapagos Petrel and Band-rumped Storm-Petrel, and also the incredibly rare sighting of a breaching Cuvier’s Beaked Whale! This deep-water species, known to dive more than 9,000 feet to hunt squid, spends very little time at the surface and is seldom seen. To see one breach is an even rarer event! 

At Genovesa, we were all left speechless by a staggering abundance of seabirds. Thousands of Red-footed Boobies commuting to and from offshore feeding areas, and as many frigatebirds soaring overhead, was the sight that greeted us at daybreak. Short hikes brought us to within feet of nesting Nazca and Red-footed boobies, Great Frigatebirds, and Swallow-tailed Gulls, all with big chicks. In the lava fields above Prince Phillips’s Steps, dozens of Red-billed Tropicbirds were flying overhead performing screaming courtship flights while their chicks peered out of nest crevices. Meanwhile, hundreds of Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrels were swarming above their nest sites as several Short-eared Owls watched patiently. When we managed to look away from the seabird spectacle, we noted four species of “Darwin’s Finches,” including island endemic Genovesa Ground-Finch and Genovesa Cactus-Finch.

Although we never landed on Santiago, we visited two adjacent small islands, Rabida and Bartolome. Before landing on Rabida, a lucky few of us got to see a Bryde’s Whale surface several times behind the ship. On shore, we enjoyed close views of some stunning American Flamingos, joined by a single Chilean Flamingo, a scarce vagrant from the mainland. At Bartolome, our grand finale included breathtaking views of the famous “Pinnacle Rock,” plus close views of several Galapagos Penguins, on the “most wanted” list for many, and the only penguin species that occurs north of the equator! 

A special thanks goes to our amazing naturalists—Juan Carlos, Pedro, and Raffa—for sharing their incredible knowledge with us, always with patience and good humor. Thanks also to the whole staff of the Coral I for keeping us safe, comfortable, and well fed throughout the cruise. We couldn’t have been in better hands!  

Day-by-Day Summary

November 11 (Tues) – Arrivals in Quito; night at Hotel San Jose de Puembo. 

November 12 (Weds) – 9:24 am flight from Quito to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (via Guayaquil); transfer to Coral I; afternoon at walk at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and the Gianni Arismendy Environmental Interpretation Center. 

November 13 (Thurs) – San Cristobal: cruise past Kicker Rock at dawn; beach walk and snorkel at Cerro Brujo; hike or panga ride at Punta Pitt (and Pitt Rock). 

November 14 (Fri) – Espanola: hike at Punta Suarez; deep water snorkeling at Gardiner Islet; walk at Gardiner Beach. 

November 15 (Sat) – Floreana: hike at Punta Cormorant; deep water snorkel or panga ride at Champion Island; beach walk, postcard sorting, and snorkeling at Post Office Bay. 

November 16 (Sun) – Santa Cruz: Charles Darwin Research Station; free time in in Puerto Ayora; El Chato II Tortoise Reserve; afternoon panga ride at Punta Carrion; cruising north of Baltra. 

November 17 (Mon) – Genovesa: morning hike up Prince Phillip’s Steps to storm-petrel colony; afternoon walk and snorkel at Darwin Beach.  

November 18 (Tues) – Rabida: snorkel and hike; Bartolome: snorkel, hike, and panga ride. 

November 19 (Weds) – 7:00 am disembark Coral I; Santa Cruz: Los Gemelos Sink Holes; 11:36 am flight from Baltra to Quito; 7:00 pm farewell dinner at hotel; night at Hotel San Jose de Puembo. 

November 20 (Thurs) – Departures home or begin Tandayapa post-tour. 

Wildlife Seen: 

KEY TO WILDLIFE LIST 

E = Endemic species 

NE = Near Endemic species 

E = Endemic subspecies 

I = Introduced  

MAMMALS: 

Galapagos Fur Seal (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) E – These animals are much more localized than Galápagos Sea Lions, preferring rocky coastlines rather than beaches. We felt lucky to find a single individual at Genovesa. 

Galapagos Sea Lion (Zalophus wollebacki) E – These delightful animals were a constant presence during our cruise, lounging on beaches, swimming alongside our pangas, and visiting snorkelers underwater!  

Bryde’s Whale (Balaenoptera brydei) – One seen surfacing several times before breakfast while we were anchored off Rabida. 

Cuvier’s Beaked Whale (Ziphius cavirostris) – It was truly a gift to see this rarely-seen animal breach multiple times behind our ship while we were cruising north of Santa Cruise in the late afternoon. 

Common Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) – We encountered a large pod (at least 150) of these animals while we were cruising off San Cristobal. They were arranged in a broad line and surging forward, often leaping out of the water, and were likely herding prey.  

Feral Goat (Capra hircus) I – Although this highly invasive introduced species is considered extirpated from most of San Cristobal, a few “Judas goats” persist, and we saw one at Punta Pitt. 

REPTILES: 

Galapagos Giant Tortoise (Chelonoidis nigra) E – We got some up-close views of these monsters at the El Chato II Tortoise Reserve on Santa Cruz. Some authorities consider the different populations of these animals to represent distinct species, of which twelve are extant. 

Pacific Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas agassizii) E – We saw at least a few of these turtles every day, sometimes in good numbers. The snorkelers particularly enjoyed swimming with them once or twice. 

Floreana Lava Lizard (Microlophus grayii) E – Numerous on Floreana. Among the smallest of the lava lizards. 

San Cristobal Lava Lizard (Microlophus bivittatus) E – Several on San Cristobal. 

Espanola Lava Lizard (Microlophus delanonis) E – Numerous at Punta Suarez. The largest of the lava lizards.  

Santa Cruz Lava Lizard (Microlophus indefatigabilis) E – Formerly part of “Galapagos Lava Lizard,” now split as a separate species. Seen on Santa Cruz and Baltra. 

Santiago Lava Lizard (Microlophus jacobii) E – Formerly part of “Galapagos Lava Lizard,” now split as a separate species. Seen on Rabida and Bartolome. 

Galapagos Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus) E – We saw just a few of these very large lizards on Baltra. 

Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) E – These iconic animals were numerous at many locations, piled upon one another along rocky shores. 

FISH: 

King Angelfish (Holacanthus passer) 

Barberfish (Johnrandallia nigrirostris) 

Razor (Yellow-tailed) Surgeonfish (Prionurus laticlavius) 

Indo-Pacific (Striped) Bonito (Sarda orientalis) 

Dusky Chub (Girella freminvillei) E 

Galapagos Mullet (Mugil galapagensis) E 

Striped Mullet (Mugil cephalus) 

Fivebar Flagtail (Kuhlia mugil) 

Black-striped Salema (Xenocys jessiae) E 

Blue-and-gold Snapper (Lutjanus viridis) 

Amarillo Snapper (Lutjanus argentiventris) 

Giant Damselfish (Microspathodon dorsalis) 

Bumphead Damselfish (Microspathodon bairdii) 

Galapagos Ringtail Damselfish (Stegastes beebei) 

Yellowtail Damselfish (Stegastes arcifrons) 

Panamic Sergent Major (Abudefduf troschelii) 

Scissortail Chromis (Chromis atrilobata) 

Flag Cabrilla (Epinephelus labriformis) 

Panamic Graysby (Cephalopholis panamensis) 

Pacific Creolefish (Gringo) (Paranthias colonus) 

Blue-chin Parrotfish (Scarus ghobban) 

Bicolor Parrotfish (Scarus rubroviolaceus) 

Bumphead Parrotfish (Bolbometopon muricatum) 

Wounded Wrasse (Halichoeres chierchiae)  

Chameleon Wrasse (Halichoeres dispilus) 

Spinster Wrasse (Halichoeres nicholsi) 

Cortez Rainbow Wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum) 

Mexican Hogfish (Bodianus diplotaenia) 

Blacktip Cardinalfish (Apogon atradorsatus) E 

Panamic Fanged (Banded) Blenny (Ophioblennius steindachneri) 

Sabertooth Blenny (Plagiotremus azaleus) 

Giant Hawkfish (Cirrhitus rivulatus) 

Coral Hawkfish (Cirrhitichthys oxycephalus) 

White-spotted Puffer (Arothron hispidus) 

Spotted Boxfish (Ostracion meleagris) 

Orangeside (Yellow-bellied) Triggerfish (Sufflamen verves) 

Finescale Triggerfish (Balistes polylepis) 

Reef Coronetfish (Fistularia commersonii) 

Jewel Moray (Muraena lentiginosa) 

Galapagos Snake Eel (Quassiremus evionthas) E 

Galapagos Shark (Carcharhinus galapagensis) 

Blacktip Shark (Carcharhinus limbatus) 

White-tipped Reef Shark (Triaenodon obesus) 

Marbled Ray (Taeniura meyeri) 

Oceanic (Giant) Manta Ray (Mobula birostris) 

OTHER MARINE CRITTERS: 

Sally Lightfoot Crab (Grapsus grapsus)  

Painted Ghost Crab (Ocypode gaudichaudii) 

Ecuadorian Hermit Crab (Coenobita compressus) 

Slate Pencil Urchin (Eucidaris thouarsii) 

Green Sea Urchin (Strongylocentrotus droebachiensis) 

Purple Sea Urchin (Strongylocentrotus purpuratus) 

Galapagos Sand Dollar (Encope galapagensis) E 

Noduled (Brown) Sea Cucumber (Stichopus fuscus) 

Chocolate Chip Sea Star (Nidorellia armata) 

Red Sun Star (Heliaster cumingi) 

Purple Cone (Conus purpurascens) 

Galapagos Octopus (Octopus oculifer) E 

Many-ribbed Jelly (Aequorea forskalea) 

BUTTERFLIES: 

Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae marcellina) E 

Galapagos Blue (Leptoes parrhasoides) E 

Ramon Blue (Hemiargus ramon) 

Monarch (Danaus plexippus megalippe) E 

Dorantes Longtail (Cecropterus dorantes galapagensis) E 

OTHER INSECTS: 

Spot-winged Glider (Pantala hymenaea) 

Striped Saddlebags (Tramea cophysa)  

Variegated Paper Wasp (Polistes versicolor) I 

Galapagos Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa darwinii) E 

Small Painted Locust (Schistocerca literosa) E 

Large Painted Locust (Schistocerca melanocera) E 

Green Jewel Fly (Ornidia obesa) 

  
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