Papua New Guinea: West New Britain - July 2025
Dates: July 27 - August 2, 2025
Leader: Max Breckenridge
E-bird
Total Species: 92 birds
Click Here to view list.
Overall Summary
A visit to the excellent, endemic-laden forests and coastlines of West New Britain is always a fantastic way to round out a trip to mainland New Guinea. When you consider that you can visit this remote part of the world and still enjoy the comforts of a modern, well-run lodge at the Walindi Plantation Resort, it really is a no-brainer!
After our somewhat indirect flight from Port Moresby via Lae, we eventually landed at Hoskins Airstrip against a backdrop of dormant volcanoes, palms, and the reef-fringed Kimbe Bay. The road around the bay was in need of some repair, but we made it to Walindi in time for lunch and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon around the lodge, ready for an early start the next day.
Over the next four full days, we thoroughly explored the forests of the Garu Wildlife Management Area, the riverine forest beside the Kulu River, and even hiked partway up Mount Garbuna. Palm oil plantations have been well established on this part of New Britain for some time, and despite the clearing of native forest for monoculture, they have provided habitat for a select number of adaptable species. Each day we drove along the bumpy road through the plantations to reach better forest, roughly a 45-minute journey from the resort.
The forests at Garu WMA revealed some wonderful species with a bit of effort. On our first morning we had uninterrupted views of several comical Melanesian Megapodes, which lay their eggs in the volcanic soils near thermal springs. New Britain Kingfisher perched up for us, and a pair of confiding Finsch’s Imperial-Pigeons was another excellent sighting, along with Yellowish Imperial-Pigeon, Red-knobbed Imperial-Pigeon, and Knobbed Fruit-Dove (something of a theme). Parrots were plentiful and obvious, with colorful and vocal Papuan Eclectus constantly overhead, braying Purple-bellied Lory, tiny Buff-faced Pygmy-Parrot, and screeching Blue-eyed Cockatoos. The two endemic coucals, Pied and Violaceous, were both heard making their booming calls that constantly echo through the forests here, and a pair of the former was seen well, including a leucistic individual. Ashy Myzomela and Red-banded Flowerpecker were frequently encountered, and we had a great sighting of the much scarcer Black-bellied Myzomela low in a flowering tree.
A couple of visits to the Kulu River, where plantation borders riverine forest, provided a number of good sightings. The stunning New Britain Dwarf-Kingfisher put in a great appearance, as did Black-capped Paradise-Kingfisher, along with the shy but vocal Bismarck Pitta, scarce Spotted Whistling-Duck on the river itself, usually shy Pale-vented Bush-hen, and flybys of dozens of huge Blyth’s Hornbills.
In the palm oil plantations we enjoyed flocks of Bismarck Munias, flushed Blue-breasted Quail, Buff-banded Rail, abundant Black Bittern and Stephan’s Doves, flighty Nankeen Night-Herons, and, at night, a fantastic sighting of the once-mythical Golden Masked-Owl.
Possibly the highlight of our stay at Walindi was a half-day boat excursion to offshore islands. These small but densely forested islands provide safe havens for many birds and a unique ecological niche for several island specialists. Scanning the trees closely from the boat, we had good looks at hundreds of Island Imperial-Pigeons, singing Black-tailed Whistlers, Beach Kingfisher, tiny Sclater’s Myzomela, singing Shining Flycatcher, Spot-breasted Cuckoo-Doves, several Nicobar Pigeons with their distinctive long necks, and glimpses of the shy Island Monarch. After birding, we were very keen to get in the water at Restorf Island, which has some of the finest snorkeling in the Pacific.
On our final full morning, we took the adventurous option and hiked up the lower slopes of Mount Garbuna (an active volcano) for a couple of miles. It was a hugely successful outing and thoroughly enjoyed by all. We climbed gradually through a village orchard full of birdlife, including our first sighting of Violaceous Coucal, before entering a wonderful section of native forest higher up. Here we encountered several rarer species, including Velvet Flycatcher and Bismarck Monarch, while Pied Cuckoo-Dove called but did not show. Singing Parrots streaked overhead, Blyth’s Hornbills were practically abundant, and we had great looks at a perched Channel-billed Cuckoo. All of this came before descending for another tasty lunch back at the lodge and a relaxing afternoon.
Our stay eventually came to an end, but it had been another wonderful trip to West New Britain and a pleasure to share with new travelers. A big thanks goes to all the staff at Walindi Plantation Resort, especially Cheyne, Joseph, and David. This is truly one of the great accommodation experiences in Papua New Guinea.
Day-by-Day Summary
July 27 - AM: Fly POM-HKN (Hoskins), drive to Walindi - PM: Walindi Plantation Resort
July 28 - AM: Garu Wildlife Management Area - PM: Kulu River
July 29 - AM: Boat trip - Restorf Island and Little Malumalu Island - PM: Walindi Plantation Resort
July 30 - AM: Kulu River - PM: Numondo Plantation
July 31 - AM: Mount Garbuna hike - PM: Walindi Plantation Resort
August 1 - AM: Walindi Plantation Resort - PM: Fly HKN-POM (Port Moresby)
August 2 - AM: Fly POM-BNE (Brisbane)
Wildlife Seen:
MAMMALS:
Spinner Dolphin (Stenella longirostris) - A decent-sized pod of this species observed at close range on our boat trip.
Great Flying Fox (Pteropus neohibernicus) - Several small camps observed across different forest birding sites.
New Britain Naked-backed Fruit Bat (Dobsonia praedatrix) - Up to 20 individuals observed leaving their roost amongst dead coconut palm fronds on the Walindi resort grounds. Several photographed at night by the leader.
REPTILES
Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) - At least one small individual observed on a mudbank in the Kulu River.
Mangrove Monitor (Varanus indicus) - A single immature individual observed on the main verandah at Walindi.
Pacific Bluetail Skink (Emoia caeruleocauda) - Common on the resort grounds at Walindi.
Skink sp. - Various species of skinks/small lizards observed briefly or not photographed.