Dates: December 15 - 18, 2025

Leaders: Andrew Whittaker & Local Leader

E-bird

Total Species: 59 birds

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Overall Summary

The excitement rose as we left our delightful Calafate lodgings and headed out for wild Patagonia, where our destination was the family-run Estancia Angostura. As we drove northeast, we crossed awe-inspiring landscapes: towering snow-capped Mount Fitz Roy, turquoise lakes, rushing glacier-melt rivers, and sandstone cliffs. Birds along the way included Lesser Rhea, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Least Seedsnipe, our first Greater Yellow-Finches, Common Miners, and the exquisite Tawny-throated Dotterel. But the avian highlight was our superb studies of one of my Patagonian favorites, the striking Chocolate-vented Tyrant.

After a long drive, we enjoyed a break for lunch in the small settlement of Gobernador Gregores. Afterwards, we drove 45 minutes on dirt roads, with chances to observe countless herds of Guanacos with several cute youngsters, before arriving at our cozy estancia, where we were warmly greeted. Along the entrance road, we found Upland Geese and Red-gartered Coots with families; as I unpacked my car, I enjoyed the delightful calls of nearby Chiloe Wigeons.

After a short rest, we decided that the great weather provided a fine opportunity to begin our search for Patagonia’s holy grail, the stunning and endangered Hooded Grebe. Full of anticipation, we drove out in mid-afternoon to the remote Strobel Plateau, a barren, desert-like site dotted with small lakes. As Julian and I began the long walk to the pools, I realized just why this mega bird had not been discovered until 1974! And bingo: on the second lake we checked, we hit the mother lode with a stunning pair of grebes. I stayed on the hillside above the pool, keeping the grebes constantly in sight, while Julian walked back to bring the group.

The group arrived, and we all had crippling scope views as these magnificent birds posed for photos and our cameras went into overdrive. At first sleeping near a flock of Silvery Grebes, the Hooded Grebes awoke to show off their stunning head ornaments, the males sporting the showiest. WOW: what an incredible, unforgettable moment! I had seen birds in breeding plumage in Chile ten years earlier, but that was nothing compared to these truly splendid views.

It was late when we returned to our hacienda, but we were all in high spirits after finding one of South America’s top birds. On the way back, we located another trip species, a Short-billed Miner, and the cutest-ever fledgling Least Seedsnipe. We celebrated with a tasty homemade dinner before turning in.

The next morning, after a restful night and a full breakfast, we explored the wonderful marsh in front of the lodge, where our main objective was the rare and skulky Austral Rail, a species rediscovered in 1998 by my colleague and friend, the late Juan Mazar Barnett, and his Argentinian friends.

As we searched, we found proud Chiloe Wigeon, Silver Teal, and Yellow-billed Pintail parents looking after their fledglings. A family of majestic Cinereous Harriers was patrolling the marsh at close range, offering superb studies; we even watched the adults passing food to their fully grown juveniles in the air—our photos confirmed that their prey included an unfortunate Yellow-billed Pintail chick.

Other waterfowl here included Crested Duck and Yellow-billed Teal, and a super-cute baby White-tufted Grebe was being carried about on its parent’s back. Despite the strong winds, songbirds were active, and we enjoyed good looks at Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Sharp-billed Canastero, and several foraging Austral Negritos and Spectacled Tyrants.

I had scouted the marsh earlier and found a gap in the vegetation near where I heard the rail singing at dawn; this looked like the ideal spot for a chance at glimpsing this rare bird. These rails simply love to hide in incredibly dense reeds, and more often than not, they remain heard-only ghosts. We patiently waited in silence as strong gusts of wind buffeted us. And then, finally, the well-earned reward: concentrating on that small gap, I saw the phantom of the reeds cautiously walk out into the open. There was jubilation all around as it stayed in sight; we even watched it sing before it melted back into the reeds. High fives all around!

We continued our walk on the dirt road along the marsh, enjoying views of Yellow-winged Blackbirds, Black-faced Ibis, Brown-hooded Gull, Crested Caracara, Patagonian Mockingbird, and the ever-present and inquisitive Chimango Caracara, along with the australis subspecies of Rufous-collared Sparrow. With the wind increasing and dust rising, and no response from the Grass Wrens, we decided to call it a morning and headed back for some rest.

The wind picked up enough to cancel the afternoon’s planned excursion. Instead, we lingered over a fabulous indoor barbecue with salads and homemade pizzas topped with delicious home-produced cheese—what a delight!

After an early breakfast the next morning, we said our fond farewells to the lovely family and staff of this secluded Patagonian paradise. Heading back over the wild expanses of arid steppe, we were amazed to see a low-flying Chilean Flamingo. We also tallied a few more firsts for the trip, including great looks at a roadside Aplomado Falcon, our first Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, and a pair of Dark-bellied Cinclodes. We arrived in Calafate in time to enjoy the famous Golden Lamb barbecue and raise a glass to an extremely successful Patagonian expedition.

We boarded the flight back to Buenos Aires in the mid-afternoon, already reminiscing about a fantastic trip full of memorable moments. We said goodbye to John at the airport before the rest of us transferred to our excellent hotel. After a good sleep, private airport transfers delivered us to our homebound flights.

Special thanks to Julian for sharing his incredible knowledge of his native Argentina and its wildlife, always with patience and good humor. I certainly look forward to experiencing the delightful Patagonian summer again.

Thanks for traveling with VENT. I look forward to our next birding adventure, wherever in the world that might be.

Day-by-Day Summary

December 15 - Traveling through spectacular Patagonian landscapes led to Estancia Angostura, with sightings of Lesser Rhea, Tawny-throated Dotterel, Chocolate-vented Tyrant, and herds of Guanacos along the way. An afternoon excursion to the Strobel Plateau produced unforgettable views of the endangered Hooded Grebe.

December 16 - Morning birding around the estancia marshes yielded Chiloe Wigeon, Cinereous Harrier, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, and Spectacled Tyrant. After a patient wait, the elusive Austral Rail finally appeared in the reeds. Strong winds canceled the afternoon excursion, so the day concluded with a wonderful indoor barbecue.

December 17 - A farewell to Estancia Angostura preceded the journey back across the Patagonian steppe to El Calafate. Highlights included Chilean Flamingo, Aplomado Falcon, Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, and Dark-bellied Cinclodes. The evening concluded with a traditional Golden Lamb barbecue celebrating a successful expedition.

December 18 - A flight from El Calafate returned the group to Buenos Aires, followed by hotel transfers and onward international departures after a memorable Patagonian adventure.

Wildlife Seen: 

MAMMALS:

European Hare (Lepus europaeus) 

Culpeo Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) 

South American Gray Fox (Lycalopex griseus) 

Humboldt’s Hog-nosed Skunk (Conepatus humboldtii) John only. 

Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) Abundant; herds with many young. 

Gallery