West Mexico: Thorn Forest to the Sierra Madre - January 2026
Dates: January 5 - 15, 2026
Leader: Brian Gibbons
E-bird
Total Species: 258 birds
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Overall Summary
Our adventures through Western Mexico were a study in contrasts. Puerto Vallarta thrummed with the comings and goings of planes, buses, and cars. San Sebastian del Oeste was more tranquil, with small-town vibes, and quieter still were our retreats at Hacienda Caudillos and Rancho Primavera. The sweltering sun of town was replaced by a chilling wind at 8,000 feet in the pines of La Bufa. One constant was birds; we enjoyed 260 species, including more than 30 endemics. Bumblebee Hummingbird, Aztec Thrush, Golden-cheeked Woodpecker, and Military Macaw all delighted us as we birded our way around Jalisco, Mexico.
We started in the Puerto Vallarta area seeking a couple of endemics that we would not cross paths with later in the trip. Cruising the Boca de Tomates road, we eventually found some gorgeous Elegant Quail after our first couple of auditory encounters remained only heard. The male’s reddish headdress is exquisite on this appropriately named bird. Our second bird proved equally challenging, but eventually a tiny, cute, green Mexican Parrotlet came to check us out. We had many other sightings along the road, including San Blas Jay, Yellow-winged Cacique, and a few massive American Crocodiles. After birding the shrublands of Vallarta, we headed into the fray, passing through all of Puerto Vallarta before exiting to the serene south side and a great lunch at the Vallarta Botanical Gardens. After birding the grounds and getting great looks at the tiny endemic Golden-crowned Emerald, we headed to Rancho Primavera near El Tuito for the next five nights. With a bird list surpassing 300 species, Rancho Primavera is an ideal place to stay and bird! Our first day even gave us a surprise, with a handsome young Boat-billed Heron roosting right next to the dock. A few days later, a Northern Potoo’s eye would gleam in the beam of our light from the same spot. Every day we enjoyed the daisy tree, a perennial composite covered in daisy-like flowers that smell of chocolate cake batter. Walking to the pond, we were bathed in its redolent air.
Expanding our explorations beyond the ranch allowed us to log more endemics and enjoy the region from the pine forests above Provincia to the parched thorn forest near the coast at Tehuamixtle, a charming little fishing village where we enjoyed guacamole, fried oysters, and a sea breeze. After lunch, the little village of Aquiles Serdán hosted a Common Black Hawk and a Hook-billed Kite. In the thorn forest before lunch, we studied a Great Black Hawk soaring overhead, noting its long legs, longer banded tail, and narrower wings. Also in the thorn forest, we saw many individuals of one of the most stunning endemics of Mexico; it was hard to take our eyes off the Orange-breasted Bunting—a kaleidoscope of green, turquoise, yellow, and orange. Red-breasted Chat and Rosy Thrush-Tanager were also admired in the thorn forest. In the evening, we took in the comings and goings at the main ranch pond, where there is always a sighting to savor. A quick look at a Crane Hawk was one reward. Commuting Lilac-crowned Amazons were another.
In the pines and oaks above Provincia, we scored a couple of great hummingbirds—the stealthy Mexican Hermit and the diminutive Sparkling-tailed Hummingbird among the more common Beryllines. A troop of handsome Spotted Wrens—another endemic—surveyed us in the morning sun from atop an old logging truck. A pair of Gray-crowned Woodpeckers was obliging too. The singing Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrushes serenaded us but had no interest in revealing themselves. While we waited at the hummingbird trees, a parade of overwintering warblers moved through—Nashville, Black-throated Green, Townsend’s, Yellow-throated, and Grace’s, to name a few. Tufted Flycatchers were around too, constantly on the go and chasing their tiny aerial prey. They competed with the Painted Redstarts for our attention.
We found a few of our targets in the agricultural fields around Cruz de Loreto among the irrigated fields and drying marshes. A trio of Bare-throated Tiger-Herons displaying and sparring in an open field was a wonderful sighting for this often secretive ardeid. An overwintering Peregrine Falcon taking a break on a fence post was admiring the same shorebirds we were scanning through—for different reasons. One of the first ponds we encountered was absolutely alive with birds. Dozens of Wood Storks worked the shallows with a single Roseate Spoonbill. Several hundred Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks roosted on the shoreline while Blue-winged and Cinnamon Teal dabbled in the shallows. Tricolored Heron, Great Egret, and White Ibis were around too. Northern Jacanas screeched at our approach, and on the far shore a few weary dowitchers rested while the other birds carried on. It was an amazing start to our morning. Right along the highway, Marti spotted a stunning Citreoline Trogon, the only male of the whole trip. Mangrove Swallows swooped over fields, and at a burning field we tallied four Swainson’s Hawks sailing through the smoke to take advantage of prey flushed by the fire! In the hedgerows and weedy fields, we found an abundance of overwintering birds mingling with the locals. Orchard Orioles, Painted Buntings, Blue Grosbeaks, and Dickcissels all rubbed shoulders with Cinnamon-rumped and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters.
Our final morning at Rancho Primavera saw us enjoying the feeder show. Plain-capped Starthroats were common, with Cinnamon, a few Broad-billed, and Ruby-throated hummingbirds vying for nectar. At the fruit and seed buffet were Yellow Grosbeaks, Cinnamon-bellied Saltators, Blue Mockingbirds, Streak-backed Orioles, and Black-throated Magpie-Jays—quite the lineup for the locals. Along the highway, we finally caught up with West Mexican Chachalacas right in the tiny community of El Columpio; several birds strolled across the soccer field as we admired them. Next, we headed to the Macaw Sanctuary, where they have a couple dozen nest boxes for Military Macaws. While we didn’t see a great variety of birds, we saw several macaws and many observers, like us, enjoying the fruits of this local conservation effort. Our final transit through the bustle of Puerto Vallarta brought us to San Sebastian del Oeste, nestled in the past among pines and oaks. San Sebastian would look like it’s from the eighteenth century if you could just vanish the pickups and power lines. This Pueblo Mágico is worth the visit, with a few great restaurants and charm to spare. We enjoyed our time there, but even more so in the expansive forests surrounding town. Based out of Hacienda Caudillos, we scored endemic birds in the yard; Rusty-crowned Ground-Sparrow, Golden Vireo, and Colima Pygmy-Owl were seen among dozens of species from the deck.
Above town, at 8,000 feet, pines and fir trees tower above the oaks. Here, on a secluded side road, we sought the rare Aztec Thrush. I was hopeful at first, hearing the American Robins calling and glimpsing them as they moved about; thrushes and robins are often consorts. The Band-tailed Pigeons were around too, a good sign that the fruits luring these birds were still in supply. Then something flushed the pigeons, and with a thunderous rush of wings they were gone, and the robins with them. It was quiet for a while after the flush. We enjoyed good looks at the nifty Collared Towhee, but it wasn’t our target. We stood and waited, and miraculously a trio of Aztec Thrushes flew into the pine in front of us. While we eventually got good scope views of them, they managed to stay behind twigs for much of their stay. There were two males and a female; both plumages are striking, and the rarity of the species always makes seeing them a great reward. Two days in the high-elevation forests gave us many great sightings. Blue-throated and Amethyst-throated Mountain-gems were the big guys that cruised the extensive Salvia flower banks. Rivoli’s Hummingbird perched overhead, and the White-eared Hummingbirds were pretty common. Mixed in were some overwintering Americans: Calliope, Broad-tailed, Rufous, and Allen’s hummingbirds. Mountain Trogons, Black-headed Siskins, Hepatic Tanagers, Slate-throated Redstarts, and Crescent-chested Warblers all inhabit the forests around La Bufa. In the flower banks, the Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercers kept a low profile as they “stole” nectar.
One afternoon, in the verdant forests above San Sebastian, we finally found a cooperative Green-striped Brushfinch. The usually shy species sat for us on a brush pile, betraying its usual nature. Nearby, we found Bumblebee Hummingbirds around, though they were a little more challenging to see than in most years. We saw a male and a female and heard the telltale whir of the male’s wings. Overhead, the orange Flame-colored Tanagers made their presence known. Many of our special birds from the pine forest wore red. We finally glimpsed the Red Warbler; the Red-headed Tanagers were very obliging on a couple of occasions; and the Red-faced Warblers were confiding in their winter homes. Painted and Slate-throated Redstarts rounded out the scheme. We enjoyed more than 30 species of warblers and 18 species of hummingbirds—a testament to the east-meets-west nature of Jalisco. Along with the birds, we enjoyed fantastic meals in Puerto Vallarta, El Tuito, Tehuamixtle, and San Sebastian del Oeste.
Thank you for traveling through West Mexico with VENT.
Until our next birding adventure, wherever in the world that may be.
—Brian Gibbons
Day-by-Day Summary
January 5 - Arrival in Puerto Vallarta and introductory birding around Boca de Tomates. Highlights included Elegant Quail, Mexican Parrotlet, San Blas Jay, Yellow-winged Cacique, and American Crocodile. Afternoon visit to Vallarta Botanical Gardens for Golden-crowned Emerald before continuing to Rancho Primavera near El Tuito.
January 6 - Birding around Rancho Primavera and nearby thorn forests near Tehuamixtle and Aquiles Serdán. Highlights included Orange-breasted Bunting, Red-breasted Chat, Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Common Black Hawk, Hook-billed Kite, Great Black Hawk, Crane Hawk, and evening flights of Lilac-crowned Amazons.
January 7 - Explored the pine and oak forests above Provincia. Notable sightings included Mexican Hermit, Sparkling-tailed Hummingbird, Spotted Wren, Gray-crowned Woodpecker, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Tufted Flycatcher, Painted Redstart, and a variety of overwintering warblers.
January 8 - Birded the agricultural fields and marshes around Cruz de Loreto. Highlights included Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Peregrine Falcon, Wood Stork, Roseate Spoonbill, Northern Jacana, Citreoline Trogon, Mangrove Swallow, Swainson’s Hawk, Painted Bunting, and Ruddy-breasted Seedeater.
January 9 - Relaxed morning enjoying the rich feeder activity at Rancho Primavera. Plain-capped Starthroats, Yellow Grosbeaks, Cinnamon-bellied Saltators, Blue Mockingbirds, and Black-throated Magpie-Jays were among the highlights. Evening spotlighting produced Northern Potoo near the ranch pond.
January 10 - Departed Rancho Primavera, stopping at El Columpio for West Mexican Chachalaca before visiting the Military Macaw Sanctuary. Continued through Puerto Vallarta to the historic mountain town of San Sebastian del Oeste and Hacienda Caudillos.
January 11 - Birding around Hacienda Caudillos and surrounding forests. Highlights included Rusty-crowned Ground-Sparrow, Golden Vireo, Colima Pygmy-Owl, and numerous hummingbirds and warblers amid the tranquil pine-oak landscapes.
January 12 - Explored the high-elevation forests of La Bufa at 8,000 feet. After patient searching, the group enjoyed excellent views of Aztec Thrush. Other highlights included Collared Towhee, Band-tailed Pigeon, Blue-throated Mountain-gem, Rivoli’s Hummingbird, Mountain Trogon, Black-headed Siskin, and Crescent-chested Warbler.
January 13 - Continued birding in the mountain forests around San Sebastian. Highlights included Amethyst-throated Mountain-gem, White-eared Hummingbird, Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer, Hepatic Tanager, Slate-throated Redstart, and several overwintering hummingbird species.
January 14 - Birded the verdant forests above town in search of regional specialties. Excellent sightings included Green-striped Brushfinch, Bumblebee Hummingbird, Flame-colored Tanager, Red Warbler, Red-headed Tanager, and Red-faced Warbler.
January 15 - Final morning enjoying the scenery and birdlife of western Mexico before returning to Puerto Vallarta for departures. Tour totals reached 260 bird species, including more than 30 endemics and 18 species of hummingbirds.
Wildlife Seen:
MAMMALS:
Mexican Gray Squirrel Sciurus aureogaster
Spiny-tailed Iguana Ctenosaur sp
Green Iguana Iguana iguana
American Crocodile Crocodylus acutus