Caucasus Georgia 9/23/2025-10/9/2025

Ushguli in the Greater Caucasus by Rafael Galvez

During our 2025 Caucasus Georgia: Birds, Ancient Chants and Wines tour, we experienced days with the best that nature and culture could offer. We birded along breathtaking landscapes and then joined a feast afterward, during which every kind of authentic dish was served, along with copious amounts of excellent wines, and accompanied by traditional music and toasting.

While we did not fail to find specialties such as Caucasian Grouse, Caucasian Snowcock, Mountain Chiffchaff, and Kruper’s Nuthatch, it was the rich musical and viticultural traditions of Georgia that added magical layers to this multifaceted journey.

Steppe Eagle by Rafael Galvez

September 24, 2025. Tbilisi–Dinner at Mari’s Balcony in Old Meidan–Night in Hotel City.

For our first dinner in the heart of Old Tbilisi, we walked through lively cobblestoned streets filled with hidden shops and murals, towards buildings decorated with wooden balconies. We soon arrived at a table on the top floor, set and ready for us, with a fantastic panoramic view of Tbilisi at sundown. Monuments, cathedrals, and landmarks were lit, and the city below felt ancient and lively.

This was our first of many supras, with plenty of wine, dish after traditional dish of fresh home cooking by our host Mari, and authentic polyphonic music sung by our friends—the Kashueti singers, who sang in the traditional 3-voice style characteristic of all Georgian polyphony. We were introduced to the most foundational Georgian wines, the Saperavi—or "black table wine"—and the Rkatsiteli, the most distinctive amber wine.

September 25. Mtkvari River–Towards Kakheti–Sagarejo and Vellino Winery–Sighnaghi, Pheasant’s Tears and Zedashe Ensemble–21 Steps Restaurant–Night in Hotel City.

This morning we strolled to the Mtkvari River to find Armenian Gulls. We also saw Eurasian Jays, Common Kingfisher, and Greater Cormorants. Beyond the historic city eastward, and beyond the industrial outskirts, vineyards dotted the rolling hills, and trucks heaping with recently picked grapes could be seen throughout. Our first visit was the Vellino Winery in Sagarejo, where winemaker Beka waited for us. He explained how he revived his family's winemaking tradition. We visited his wine cellar, where he showed us the "qvevri"—large clay vessels buried into the ground, waiting for freshly pressed grapes. There, we had another supra, heaping with food including the famous khachapuri cheese bread, meat kababs, fresh salads, walnut paste pkhali with spinach and pomegranates, and wine.

We continued eastward to Sighnaghi, a fortified town perched atop the ocean-like Alazani Valley, overlooking the Greater Caucasus. At the Pheasant's Tears restaurant, a private room awaited with more wines and spreads. Four members of the Zedashe Ensemble sang and performed for us polyphony from Kakheti, with its eastern flare, and lullabies from the western region of Mingrelia. The wines included Kakhuri Mtsvivani and Chkhaveri, which surprised our palates.

That night at the 21 Steps Restaurant, we met my colleague and dear friend John Graham, collaborator and Georgian operator for this tour. There we had another full course of Georgian plates, including Lobiani—Georgian bean bread, River Trout, and more wine and toasting.

Zedashe Ensemble Chanting by Rafael Galvez

September 26. Kumisi and Jandari Lakes–The Desert of David Gareji–Stamba Complex and the “Warehouse” of natural wines–Night in Hotel City, Tbilisi.

We left Tbilisi towards Lake Kumisi outside the city. Here we saw the first of our Steppe and Long-legged buzzards, European Stonechats, Lesser Spotted Eagle, and Great Crested and Little grebes. We then continued southward towards the border with Azerbaijan, visiting Jandari Lake where we found Pygmy Cormorants, Common Snipe, and other waterbirds. After crossing a painted desert, we arrived at Davit Gareji, a set of monasteries carved out of the rock, which have been occupied by monks since the sixth century. Along the way we saw Eurasian Kestrels, European Rollers, Northern and Isabelline wheatears, and many Crested Larks.

In Tbilisi, we went deeper into the city, vibrant with young people, business, and tourism. We visited the Stamba Complex, an industrial husk transformed to a post-modern experience with lush gardens, reading rooms, a restaurant, and the "Warehouse" hosting the largest collection of "natural" wines in Eastern Europe. My dear friend John Wurdeman—brainchild of the collection and pioneer winemaker—shared some of his favorite Georgian wines. We tasted some of the very best wines produced in Georgia including Tsolikouri, Kisi, and an amazing Vardisperi Rkatsiteli. This fantastic wine-tasting experience was followed by a spectacular supra, once again featuring plate after plate of refreshing traditional Georgian food and plenty of wine and toasting.

Gergeti Trinity Church and Kazbeg by Bob Warren

September 27. We left Tbilisi–Jvari Monastery–Uplitsikhe–Zgapari lunch–Chveneburebi dinner–Night in Bloom Hotel, Batumi.

We left Tbilisi westward, and stopped at the fourteenth century monastery of Jvari (The Cross), from which we could see the confluence of the Aragvi and Kura rivers flanking the ancient capital of Mtskheta. Continuing along the pastoral route, we paused to admire Uplitsikhe—a Bronze Age settlement carved out of the mountain rock. We saw several species including Steppe Buzzards, flocks of Calandra Larks, Corn Buntings, and Eurasian Goldfinches. The weather cooled and moistened, and at the scenic Zgapari restaurant for lunch, we had to warm up.

We arrived at Batumi by afternoon. The theme park-like atmosphere of the city, with its gaudy casinos and whimsical skyscrapers, was a big contrast to the historic Georgia we had seen to this point. That night, we walked a few blocks from Bloom Hotel to Chveneburebi, where we dined.

September 28. Chorokhi Delta north–Megrul-Lazuri for lunch–Sakhalvasho raptor site, Makhinjauri–8000 Wines dinner–Night in Bloom Hotel.

September 29. Chorokhi Delta south–Sakhalvasho–Lurji Supra for dinner–Night in Bloom Hotel.

During both mornings, we first headed towards the Black Sea coast, visiting the delta where the Chorokhi River meets the sea. At both the north and south side of the delta, we found six species of terns including Black, White-winged, and Gull-billed, as well as Yelkouan Shearwaters, Parasitic Jaegers, Black-winged Pratincole, and more. In drier realms, we saw migrating flocks of White and Western Yellow wagtails, pipits including Caucasian Water, Tree, and Red-throated, and many stonechats, primarily European, accompanied by Siberian and even “Caspian.”  A stunning young Red-footed Falcon perched for us to admire. Gulls were numerous, with tens of thousands, mostly Yellow-legged, but also Black-headed and some Heuglin’s Lesser Black-backed.

The centerpiece of our visit to the Black Sea coast was the raptor migration as witnessed from the slopes of Makhinjauri. We visited the Sakhalvasho site twice, experiencing more than 1,000 raptors of 20 species on the first day, and nearly none on the second due to weather.

September 30. We left Batumi–Maltakva River delta–Kviparosi for lunch–towards Svaneti up the Greater Caucasus–Night in LaTour Guesthouse, Mestia.

Leaving Batumi, the fog that shrouded the slopes of Makhinjauri the day before had turned to rain along the coast.  As we traced the path of Jason and the Argonauts, our first stop was near Kolkheti, at the mouth of the Maltakva River, finding new birds including Sandwich and Common terns, along with gulls of several species, most notably a more upright Caspian and a very dark “Baltic” Lesser Black-backed.

Continuing north, we began climbing up the slopes of the greater Caucasus towards Svaneti. The sheer walls of the gorges became steeper with every hairpin turn, and the mountains shrouded more and more with mist. We finally saw the first of Svaneti’s ancient towers before nightfall. After settling in at LaTour Guesthouse, we gathered at their dining hall and enjoyed some traditional home cooking along with wine and toasting.

The Chamguliani Sisters in Lakhushdi by Steve Bershader

October 1. Up Mount Tetnuldi to top slopes–Gistola Hotel for Riho Ensemble performance–Lushnu Qor for dinner–Night at LaTour Guesthouse.

October 2. Up Mount Tetnuldi to top slopes–Ushguli hamlets for lunch–Village of Lakhushdi with the Chamguliani family for dinner–Night at LaTour Guesthouse.

During our time in Svaneti, we visited Mt. Tetnuldi three times, twice climbing the summit to 10,000 ft. Along the forested road up to the tree line, we caught up with Kruper’s Nuthatch, Red Crossbill, Goldcrest, Hawfinch, Black Woodpecker, and countless Caucasian Mountain Chiffchaffs. And while we heard Caucasian Snowcocks during our first vigil at the summit, the snow covering the slopes made it cold and the ground cover challenging. It wasn’t until our second climb that we finally saw a group of ten Snowcocks wheeling on the wing to descend on a slope where we could appreciate them at length!

Our musical encounters in Svaneti, a region with its own, archaic flavor of polyphonic tradition, were standouts. First we saw Vaho Pilpkhani and his Riho Ensemble perform in full garb, a series of Svanetian worship songs, round dances, and bringing in audience participation. However, it was our visit to the Chamguliani family in Lakhushdi that was most memorable, as we enjoyed an intimate dinner of traditional Svanetian food, accompanied by the voices of the three sisters that hosted us and the haunting sounds of their Chuniri viol.

Svanetian Dancers by Steve Bershader

October 3. Lower slopes of Tetnuldi–We left Svaneti–Bagrati Cathedral, Mestia–Sisters Restaurant for dinner–Night in King David Hotel, Kutaisi.

Before leaving Svaneti, we visited the lower slopes of Tetnuldi, finding Black Woodpecker, Hawfinch and others. Lunch was at a local spot along the mountain highway towards the lowlands. With only one night in Kutaisi, the third largest city in Georgia, we had an unforgettable evening, first at the Bagrati Cathedral, where we heard beautiful chanting reverberating within the arched interior—voted one of the favorites of the tour. This was followed by a wonderful dinner at the Sisters Restaurant, filled with a lively atmosphere and energy; we ate wonderful Georgian cuisine and enjoyed some of the best wines of the tour, including a Rkatsiteli from Racha, Kisi, and Saperavi.

Caucasian Snowcocks by Rafael Galvez

October 4. We left Kutaisi–Through Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park–Over the Zekari Pass–Night in Gino Rabath Castle, Akhaltsikhe.

We left towards the Lesser Caucasus, climbing up forested ravines where we found Eurasian Bullfinches; Middle Spotted, Greater Spotted, and Black woodpeckers; and past the tree line through the Zekari Pass, where we had a picnic lunch. Along thistle fields, we finally found a flock of Fire-fronted Serins and many Northern Wheatears, Black Redstarts, a Meadow Pipit, and more stonechats. After leaving the rugged road, we entered the Javakheti Region, arriving at the castle at Akhaltsikhe, where we stayed two nights.

Birding above 10,000 ft. by Bob Warren

October 5. Birding Akhaltsikhe Castle–Madatapa Lake–Bughdasheni Reserve–Night in Gino Rabath Castle.

The next morning, we birded within the castle where we stayed, finding Western Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock-Thrush, Rock Bunting, and Eurasian Crag-Martin. Then southward towards the Armenian border, we visited Madatapa. Along the way we encountered many raptors including Steppe Buzzards; Lesser Spotted, Imperial, and Steppe eagles; a stunning male Pallid Harrier; and many songbirds such as Twite, Linnet, pipits, and wagtails. At Madatapa, thousands of birds dotted the massive lake. Highlights included hundreds of Graylag Geese and Northern Lapwings, dozens of Ruffs, and countless teals and coots. We then visited the Bughdasheni Reserve, where we found Ruddy Shelducks and various duck species including Gadwall and Shoveler.

October 6. We left Akhaltsikhe–Lunch in Natakhtari–Ukhati wall–Night in Hotel Stancia, Stepandsminda.

We set out on the last leg of our tour towards the east again, bypassing the capital and making the first stop along the famed Military Highway at Natakhtari, where we had a wonderful lunch, finally indulging in Khinkali, the notorious Georgian dumplings. We continued northward along the highway, climbing up to 9,000 ft. and eventually arriving at Stepandsminda.

Rafael, Bob and Dato chanting, by Steve Bershader

October 7. Kuro Slopes–Ukhati–Lunch in Cozy Corner–Vedza Buckthorn shrubs–Dariali Gorge–Gergeti Trinity meadows–Night in Hotel Stancia.

This morning we visited the Kuro Slopes, where it did not take long for us to find the endemic Caucasian Grouse, tallying 17! We also found a group of East Caucasian Turs upon the crags.

For the remainder of our time in Kazbegi, we explored various niches where we caught up with elusive Dunnocks, chiffchaffs, Eurasian Wren, and other species. Most notably, we made three attempts in search of the tiny Wallcreeper at the sheer walls by the town of Ukhati. It wasn’t until our final try that we finally succeeded in what may have been a magical act. As some of us pondered on past experiences with Wallcreepers at a particular section of the wall in previous years, one was immediately sighted, and was then observed chasing a second Wallcreeper. This closed out our species list with one of the most highly-sought species of the tour!

October 8. We left Kazbegi–Ukhati–Tsiskvili Restaurant in Mtskheta–Cathedral of the Life-Giving Pillar–Night in Hotel City, Tbilisi.

As we returned towards Tbilisi, we made a final stop at the ancient capital of Mtskheta for our final meal together, a hearty lunch accompanied by Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. We compiled our final list and favorite experiences of the tour and rounded up with a performance of a sacred Svanetian chant by three members of the tour—both tour leaders and Bob! We strolled to the impressive Stetitskhoveli Cathedral before returning to Tbilisi.

Stetitskhoveli Cathedral by Bob Warren

A complete list of the birds recorded on our tour can be found at: https://ebird.org/tripreport/423217

Photo gallery.

Description for the next departure of this tour.

Rafael Galvez's upcoming tour schedule.

ITINERARY:

September 23, 2025. Arrivals in Tbilisi, Georgia.

September 24. Tbilisi – Dinner at Mari’s Balcony in Old Meidan – Night in Hotel City.

September 25. Mtkvari (Kura) River – Towards Kakheti – Sagarejo and Vellino Winery – Sighnaghi, Pheasant’s Tears and Zedashe Ensemble – 21 Steps Restaurant – Night in Hotel City.

September 26. Kumisi and Jandari Lakes – The Desert of David Gareji – Stamba Complex and the “Warehouse” of natural wines – Night in Hotel City, Tbilisi.

September 27. We left Tbilisi – Jvari Monastery – Uplitsikhe – Zgapari lunch – Chveneburebi dinner – Night in Bloom Hotel, Batumi.

September 28. Chorokhi Delta north – Megrul-Lazuri for lunch – Sakhalvasho raptor site, Makhinjauri – 8000 Wines dinner – Night in Bloom Hotel.

September 29. Chorokhi Delta south – Sakhalvasho – Lurji Supra for dinner – Night in Bloom Hotel.

September 30. We left Batumi – Maltakva River delta – Kviparosi for lunch – towards Svaneti up the Greater Caucasus – Night in LaTour Guesthouse, Mestia.

October 1. Up Mount Tetnuldi to top slopes – Gistola Hotel for Riho Ensemble performance – Lushnu Qor for dinner – Night at LaTour Guesthouse.

October 2. Up Mount Tetnuldi to top slopes – Ushguli hamlets for lunch – Village of Lakhushdi with the Chamguliani family for dinner – Night at LaTour Guesthouse.

October 3. Lower slopes of Tetnuldi – We left Svaneti – Bagrati Cathedral, Mestia – Sisters Restaurant for dinner – Night in King David Hotel, Kutaisi.

October 4. We left Kutaisi – Through Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park – Over the Zekari Pass – Night in Gino Rabath Castle, Akhaltsikhe.

October 5. Birding Akhaltsikhe Castle – Madatapa Lake – Bughdasheni Reserve – Night in Gino Rabath Castle.

October 6. We left Akhaltsikhe – Lunch in Natakhtari – Ukhati wall – Night in Hotel Stancia, Stepandsminda.

October 7. Kuro Slopes – Ukhati – Lunch in Cozy Corner – Vedza Buckthorn shrubs – Dariali Gorge – Gergeti Trinity meadows – Night in Hotel Stancia.

October 8. We left Kazbegi – Ukhati – Tsiskvili Restaurant in Mtskheta – Cathedral of the Life-Giving Pillar – Night in Hotel City, Tbilisi.

October 9. Most participants departed for home during this date.

Lammergeier by Rafael Galvez