VENT. Ecuador: Eastern Slope of the Andes 1/19/2025-1/29/2025

It was Alexander Von Humboldt who, during his explorations in Ecuador in the early 1800s, was the first to coin the concept of climate zones. And it was VENT’s Eastern Slope of the Andes tour, in Ecuador this January, that once again was able to confirm his findings. Each distinct altitudinal realm that we visited offered up a smorgasbord of exotic local delights!

Andean Cock-of-the-rock © Mary Stephens

A part of our group navigated upstream along the Río Napo—returning from the Best of Amazonia tour with Remi Grefa—and the remainder flew in from the Andean capital city of Quito—with Paul Greenfield—to meet up in the frontier town of Francisco de Orellana, better known as ‘Coca.’ The Eastern Slope roadtrip was off-and-running. We headed east towards the Andean foothill with a stop in the town of Loreto for a lunch-birding break at Hostería Ojo de Agua. Among the species we recorded there were Ruddy Ground-Dove; Short-tailed Swift; a nesting Rufous-breasted Hermit; Purple Gallinules; Striated Heron; Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl; Black-fronted Nunbirds; Yellow-headed Caracaras; Great Kiskadee; Social Flycatcher; Yellow-green Vireo; Violaceous Jays; Gray-breasted Martins; White-winged, White-banded, and Blue-and-white swallows; Southern House Wren; Black-billed Thrushes; Thick-billed Euphonia; Russet-backed Oropendolas; Yellow-rumped Cacique; a boreal migrant Yellow Warbler; Blue-gray and Palm tanagers; Wing-barred Seedeater; and Buff-throated Saltator. We then continued eastward to the turnoff that pointed us upslope in the direction of our first scheduled destination—Wildsumaco Lodge. We birded along that entrance road and from the lodge deck, once we settled in, where we got our first taste of what mega diversity looks like while checking out the nectar feeders. Species we saw that afternoon included Smooth-billed Anis; Squirrel Cuckoo; Green Hermit; Sparkling and Brown violetears; Wire-crested Thorntails; Ecuadorian Piedtail; Peruvian Racket-tails; Black-throated Brilliant; Gould’s Jewelfront; Napo Sabrewing; Fork-tailed Woodnymph; Many-spotted Hummingbird; Golden-tailed Sapphire; Glittering-throated Emerald; Coppery-chested Jacamar; Golden-collared Toucanet; Yellow-tufted Woodpecker; Military Macaws; Olive-backed Woodcreeper; Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaners; Dark-breasted Spinetail; Olive-striped Flycatcher; Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrants (first of several); Western and Eastern wood-pewees; White-thighed Swallows; Magpie, White-lined, Silver-beaked, Spotted, Blue-necked, and Turquoise tanagers; along with Chestnut-bellied and Black-and-white seedeaters, among others. This was a nice leisurely start to more-to-come!

Golden-tailed Sapphire © Mary Stephens

Wildsumaco was our ‘workplace’ for two-and-a-half days; this foothill location, set along a ridge that leads to Sumaco Volcano, is well known for its rich fauna and flora. We birded the lodge deck, the roadside habitat, forest trails, and hung out at the ‘Coffee Hill House’ deck; a sample of new species recorded includes Speckled Chachalaca; White-throated Quail-Dove; Chestnut-collared and White-collared swifts; White-necked Jacobin; Black-throated Mango; Green-backed Hillstar; Gorgeted Woodstar; Violet-headed Hummingbird; Blackish Rail; Swallow-tailed Kite; Double-toothed Kite; Broad-winged Hawk; Collared Trogon; Black-streaked Puffbirds; Gilded and Red-headed barbets; Chestnut-eared Araçari; Yellow-throated, White-throated, and Channel-billed toucans; Lafresnaye’s Piculets; Crimson-crested Woodpecker; Barred Forest-Falcon; Black Caracara; Red-billed and Blue-headed parrots; Scaly-naped Amazons; Maroon-tailed Parakeets; Chestnut-fronted and Military macaws; White-eyed Parakeets; Lined Antshrikes; Plain Antvireos; Western Fire-eye; Black-faced Antbirds; Ochre-bellied Antpitta; Plain-brown Woodcreeper; Amazonian Plain-Xenops; Montane Foliage-gleaner; Black-billed Treehunter; Blue-rumped and Striolated manakins; Fiery-throated Fruiteater; Green-backed (Yellow-cheeked) Becard; Slaty-capped Flycatcher; Variegated Bristle-Tyrant; Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant; Common Tody-Flycatcher; Olive-faced Flatbill; Ornate Flycatcher; Sooty-headed and Golden-faced tyrannulets; Olive-sided Flycatcher; Smoke-colored Pewee; Dusky-capped Flycatcher; Olivaceous Greenlet; Red-eyed Vireo; Orange-bellied Euphonia; Olivaceous Sisikin; Yellow-browed Sparrow; Crested Oropendola; Cerulean, Blackburnian, Blackpoll, and Canada warblers; Tropical Parula; Slate-throated Redstart (Whitestart); Summer and Scarlet tanagers; Fulvous Shrike-Tanager; Paradise, Bay-headed, Green-and-gold, and Golden tanagers; Black-faced and Blue dacnises; Purple and Golden-collared honeycreepers; Deep-blue (Golden-eyed) Flowerpiercer; and Bluish-gray Saltator. A morning side-trip to the community run Amarun Pakcha Reserve produced some great additional sightings including Rufous-breasted Wood-Quails, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Band-bellied Owls, 13 or so Andean Cocks-of-the-rock, Boat-billed Flycatcher, White-capped Dippers, an Orange-billed Sparrow, and Swallow Tanager.

Black-streaked Puffbird © Paul J. Greenfield

We departed from Wildsumaco and ascended to our second scheduled destination—Las Termas de Papallacta—located in the high-temperate zone. On our drive, we made a few scheduled stops; our first was along the road above the Río Hollín, where we saw a whopping 15 Cliff Flycatchers and 3 Blackish Nightjars. We continued our climb to the Guacamayos Ridge, where Remi spotted a beautiful Southern Emerald-Toucanet, and at the pass we saw 2 Black-and-chestnut Eagles; we then drove on a ways to the village of Cosanga, where along the river there we enjoyed 5 male Torrent Ducks, Spotted Sandpiper,Torrent Tyrannulet, and a pair of Black Phoebes. A later stop at La Brisa, a locally created birding garden, we enjoyed several now familiar hummingbirds, but added our first Speckled Hummingbirds, Long-tailed Sylphs, Bronzy Incas, Chestnut-breasted Coronets, and Violet-fronted Brilliants, in addition to a Golden-olive Woodpecker, our first Pale-edged Flycatchers, Chestnut-bellied Thrush, our first Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers, an eye-catching Orange-eared Tanager, along with Saffron-crowned and Flame-faced tanagers. We continued climbing in elevation, and before our arrival added Yellow-billed Pintails and a few Andean Teal. Our day-and-a-half at Las Termas de Papallacta centered our birding on high elevation (temperate and páramo zone) species. We took early morning and one afternoon drive to bird along the upper road in elfin and upper temperate-zone forest and woodland, above Las Termas, and nearly froze to death in the freezing windy páramo at Papallacta Pass and above (to over 14,000 ft above sea level). Species we recorded in these areas included Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle; Ecuadorian Hillstar (great looks at a male!); Viridian Metaltail; Golden-breasted Puffleg; Buff-winged Starfrontlet; Andean Gulls; Tawny Antpitta; Chestnut-winged Cinclodes; Pearled Treerunners; White-chinned Thistletail; White-banded and White-throated tyrannulets; Tufted and Agile tit-tyrants; Gray-browed, Slaty, and Pale-naped brushfinches; Black-crested Warbler; Spectacled Redstart (Whitestart); Masked (rare and local!), Black-chested, and Buff-breasted mountain-tanagers; Golden-crowned Tanagers; Blue-backed Conebills; Glossy and Black flowerpiercers; Black-backed Bush-Tanagers; and Hooded Siskin. Our departure from Las Termas took us birding along the one-way exit road where we came up with several new species, such as Red-crested Cotingas and Rufous Wren, along with Lacrimose and Scarlet-bellied mountain-tanagers. We then advanced downslope to Guango Lodge for birding and lunch. In the rain, the group recorded Tourmaline Sunangel, Collared Inca, Buff-tailed Coronet, White-bellied Woodstars, Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucans!, Turquoise Jay, Mountain Caciques, Russet-crowned Warblers, Hooded Mountain-Tanagers, Blue-and-black Tanagers, Capped Conebill, Masked Flowerpiercers, and Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager. Later in the afternoon, we made our way farther down to Cabañas San Isidro, where we had time for a little birding around the grounds . . . with Fawn-breasted Brilliants, Masked Trogon, and Cinnamon Flycatchers as new trip species.

Tourmaline Sunangel © Mary Stephens

Two days and a final early morning at San Isidro and its surroundings served up some great sightings from the lodge’s dining room deck, the forest moth light, and along the Las Caucheras Road. Among the many species were Sickle-winged Guans; Band-tailed Pigeons; Southern Lapwings; Broad-winged Hawks; San Isidro Mystery Owls (possibly Black-banded Owls); Crested and Golden-headed quetzals; Andean Motmot; White-bellied Antpitta; Streaked Tuftedcheek; Azara’s Spinetail; Rufous-breasted, Handsome, Flavescent, and Lemon-browed flycatchers; Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatchers; White-tailed Tyrannulet; Black-billed Peppershrike; Brown-capped Vireo; Inca (Green) Jays; Brown-bellied Swallows; Mountain Wrens; Yellow-throated and Common chlorospinguses; Chestnut-capped Brushfinches; Red-breasted Meadowlark; Black-eared Hemispinguses; Beryl-spangled Tanagers; and Bluish Flowerpiercers. We also made a visit to the locally owned El Quetzal and nearby La Brisa property, where we ticked Lyre-tailed Nighjars (females) and Tawny-bellied Hermits, among quite a few now familiar species. Alas, we reached our final day, as we departed from Cabañas San Isidro and again ascended up past the Papallacta Pass and to the central Andean valley, then up higher again to the locally owned Tambo Condor and then to the páramo zone at Antisana National Park. New species in this high elevation area included Andean Duck, Black-winged Ground-Doves, Great Sapphirewings, Giant Hummingbird, Andean Lapwings, colossal Andean Condors, Variable Hawk, Carunculated Caracaras, American Kestrel, Stout-billed Cinclodes, Many-striped Canastero, Plain-capped (Páramo) Ground-Tyrants, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Yellow-breasted Brushfinch, and Plumbeous Sierra-Finches. We also saw many White-tailed Deer, Tropical Cottontails, and a Culpeo Fox.

Masked Trogon © Mary Stephens

Our journey came to its finale as we pulled into San José de Puembo for a little freshening up, a final checklist session, and our farewell dinner; all passengers took this evening’s flight back home.

ITINERARY

JAN. 19: Arrival in Quito (overnight at San José de Puembo) for part of our group; the

remainder still participating in The Best of Amazonia Tour at Napo Wildlife

Center

JAN. 20: Flight from Mariscal Sucre International Airport, Quito to ‘Coca’ (Puerto

Francisco de Orellana) for Eastern Slope (only) passengers and Paul

Greenfield. The Best of Amazonia passengers with Remi Grefa: departure

from NWC, canoeing to Añanguyacu landing; boarding motorized canoe,2.5-

hour trip along the Río Napo to the NWC landing area along the Río

Payamino; Both groups meet up with Juan Veintimilla. We load the van and

initiate the Eastern Slope of the Andes Tour. Drive towards Wildsumaco

Lodge with a lunch-stop and some birding at Ojo de Agua Hostería in the

town of Loreto; afternoon drive to and along the Wildsumaco entrance road;

also some time at the Wildsumaco Lodge deck. (Overnight at Wildsumaco

Lodge)

JAN. 21: Wildsumaco Lodge: early morning moth light and then to the ‘Coffee House’

deck; Afternoon on Coopmans’ & Antpitta Trails to feeder with local guide,

“Hugo”, then upper road and lodge deck. (Overnight at Wildsumaco Lodge)

JAN. 22: Wildsumaco Lodge: early morning moth light; remainder of morning along

the F.A.C.E. Trail, and Lodge deck; Afternoon along the lower entrance road

(Overnight at Wildsumaco Lodge)

JAN. 23: Wildsumaco Lodge: morning at Amarun Pakcha Reserve. Departure from

Wildsumaco, drive to highlands with birding stops above Río Hollín, Cosanga

village and river, La Brisa, to Las Termas de Papallacta (overnight at Las

Termas de Papallacta)

JAN. 24: Las Termas de Papallacta: pre-breakfast birding along upper road through

elfin woodland and forest; post-breakfast drive to Papallacta Pass (13,000

fasl) and to the antenna area above the pass (14,000+ fasl)—freezing and

incredibly windy! Afternoon return to Las Termas upper road area (overnight

at Las Termas de Papallacta)

JAN. 25: Las Termas de Papallacta (rain): post-breakfast departure, birding the one-

way exit road: then to Guango Lodge, birding and lunch (more rain); Then

drive to Cabañas San Isidro (some trail birding). (overnight at Cabañas San

Isidro)

JAN. 26: Cabañas San Isidro: pre-breakfast dining room deck and antpitta feeding

area birding: remainder of the morning birding along the Las Caucheras

Road (rain); afternoon to El Quetzal; early evening at ‘nightjar spot.’

(overnight at Cabañas San Isidro)

JAN. 27: Cabañas San Isidro: pre-breakfast dining room deck and forest moth light

birding; remainder of the morning birding along the Las Caucheras Road and

side-road; Afternoon birding farther along the Las Caucheras Road.

(overnight at Cabañas San Isidro)

JAN. 28: Cabañas San Isidro: pre-breakfast dining room deck and forest moth light

birding; Departure and drive to and birding at Tambo Condor (box lunch

there); afternoon birding at Antisana National Park (high paramo and Laguna

La Mica). Drive to San José de Puembo—final bird-list session and farewell

Dinner; group departs for home (day-room at San José de Puembo)

KEY

H = heard only

Bold = special sightings

♂ = male ♀ = female

OA = Ojo de Agua Hostería

WS = Wildsumaco Lodge/foothills

AP = Amarun Pakcha Reserve

HO = Hollín River area

CO = Cosanga Village and River

LB = La Brisa

TP = Las Termas de Papallacta, to upper road elfin forest

PAP = Papallacta Pass region to antennas

GL = Guango Lodge

SI = Cabañas San Isidro

LC = Las Caucheras Road

EQ = El Quetzal

TC = Tambo Condor Restaurant

ANT = Antisana National Park