ebird.org/tripreport/471611  

The rare Buff-fronted Owl, a true gem! © Andrew Whittaker

Northern Argentina was as sensational as ever, with fun birding, stupendous scenery, and countless different habitats. Our tour was a true birding bonanza, with 465 species of birds tallied. Fabulous weather blessed us throughout, along with a delightful array of exotic wildlife and easy birding. We cleaned up on almost all of our sought-after endemics and near-endemics, thanks to Julian’s intimate knowledge of this wondrous corner of Argentina. 

The mighty and magnificent Iguazu Falls © Andrew Whittaker

A wonderful escape from winter months up north, Argentina offered us outstanding weather this year, pleasantly warm and sunny. With great accommodations, scrumptious meals (especially noteworthy were Gabi’s magnificent barbecues), and great wine—really, can life get any better?

After a night in colorful Buenos Aires, we took an early morning flight north to Posadas, on the Rio Parana. Loading into our 4 x 4 vehicles, we drove south to the fascinating Argentinian Pantanal wetland and the grasslands of Ibera Marshes. Birding here is always spectacular, and on our best day, we recorded 111 species! Our delightful lodge was a true paradise, with wooded gardens overlooking a lovely reed-edged lake. As we enjoyed one of the lodge’s delicious meals, the garden’s resident Giant Wood-Rail and Red-crested Cardinal quickly introduced themselves, even taking bread.

In the late afternoons, delightful boat trips were a chance to relax and enjoy the rich wildlife of the area. Highlights included a very cooperative Rufous-sided Crake, Least Bittern, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Whistling Heron, Snail Kite, and Brazilian Teal. Amazon and Ringed kingfishers fished the shallows alongside Large-billed and Yellow-billed terns, while marshlands held striking Scarlet-headed Blackbirds, Black-backed Water-Tyrants, White-headed Marsh Tyrants, Green-winged Saltators, and Yellow-billed Cardinals. Giant Southern Screamers were omnipresent, and the incredibly tame Marsh Deer and Capybara showed off.

Rufous-sided Crake © Andrew Whittaker

Exploring the vast grasslands, gallery forests, and marshes, we located sought-after species such as the beautiful Yellow Cardinal, Strange-tailed Tyrant, and a stellar line-up of rare and colorful seedeaters including Marsh, Rufous-rumped, Chestnut, and Tawny-bellied. Additional noteworthy species included the Greater Rhea, Jabiru, Limpkin, Maguari Stork, Whistling Heron, Plumbeous Ibis, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, White-tailed Hawk, Snail Kite, Spotted Nothura, Campo Flicker, and Fork-tailed Flycatcher. Checking out mobbing flocks rewarded us with White and Checkered woodpeckers, Blue-crowned Parakeet, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Blue-tufted Starthroat, Chotoy Spinetail, Long-tailed Reed Finch, Green-winged Saltator, and many more. We also enjoyed mega studies of the poorly known Plains Viscacha, Pampas Fox, and Brown Brocket Deer. 

Heading north, we stopped off around Ituzaingo for such fascinating grassland specialists as the recently described Ibera Seedeater (2016), the endangered Sickle-winged Nightjar, Sharp-tailed and Streamer-tailed tyrants, Pearly-bellied Seedeaters, and heard-only Ocellated Crakes.

Mighty Iguazu Falls and the national park enthralled us as we explored the trails and stared into the Devil’s Throat, simply one of the wonders of the world! The tropical rainforest here provided a wealth of new birds. Noteworthy finds included mega views of Black-fronted Piping-Guan, Maroon-bellied Parakeet, Blackish Rail, Toco Toucan, Yellow-fronted and the stupendous Blond-crested woodpeckers, Plush-crested Jay, the stunning Swallow-tailed Manakin, and Green-headed Tanager. Forest specialties we located included the rare Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher, White-eyed Foliage-gleaner, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, Riverbank Warbler, Rufous Gnateater, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Rufous-margined Antwren, Araucaria Tit-Spinetail, and Saffron-billed Sparrow.

Black-fronted Piping-Guan © Andrew Whittaker

Delightful hummingbird gardens dazzled us with Swallow-tailed Hummingbirds, Black-throated Mango, Planalto Hermit, Gilded Hummingbird, Violet-capped Woodnymph, and Versicolored Emeralds.

We next flew south to Cordoba, where an exciting set of new species awaited. After meeting up with our fabulous driver, Gabi, we started out on a real high, with unprecedented in-your-face Andean Condors in flight! Other birds here included three endemics—the Long-tailed (Sierra) Meadowlark and both Olrog’s and Cordoba cinclodes—along with Variable Hawks, Spectacled Tyrants, Hellmayr’s Pipit, White-winged Cinclodes, Grass Wren, and Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant.

Mega views of Andean Condors © Andrew Whittaker

The El 44 lodge is always a favorite, nestled into rich Chaco with countless birds at our doorstep. The dawn chorus here is truly special. Over our two days here, we marveled at Andean and Tataupa tinamous, Spot-winged Falconet, the majestic Black-bodied Woodpecker, Spot-backed Puffbird, Crested Gallito, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, and Chaco Sparrow. Even more color was provided by the Blue-tufted Starthroat, White-tipped Plantcutter, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, Many-colored Chaco Finch, and Ultramarine Grosbeak, while the Chaco Earthcreeper, Brown Cacholote, and Lark-like Brushrunner were more challenging. Marvelous sunsets were the backdrop to Gabi’s superb barbecues.

Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper © Andrew Whittaker

Laguna Chiquita was a new addition—and wow! This immense saline lake was packed with thousands of Chilean Flamingos and Wilson’s Phalaropes. Other waterbirds included the Coscoroba Swan, three coot species, ducks, terns, and shorebirds. Neat finds included the Aplomado Falcon, Rosy-billed Pochard, Silver Teal, Red Shoveler, Upland and Stilt sandpipers, Snowy-crowned Tern, Dinelli’s Doradito, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, and Correndera Pipit. A Dot-winged Crake—so close—remained hidden.

Heading north to the salt desert of Salinas Grandes, we finally came up with our top prize, the endemic Salinas Monjita! Other birds here included the Brushland Tinamou, Chaco Chachalaca, Crested Hornero, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Suiriri Flycatcher, White Monjita, Ringed Warbling Finch, and Black-crested Finch.

After a long drive to the lush province of Tucuman, we enjoyed an afternoon birding the cooler Yungas forests with their crystal-clear streams. Among the unique rewards here were lovely Torrent Ducks and one of the entire tour’s most iconic species, the magical Rufous-throated Dipper. Both the Tucuman Parrot and the endemic Yellow-striped Brushfinch showed well. The lovely flower garden at our secluded hotel provided us the rare Slender-tailed Woodstar and stunning Red-tailed Comets.

A stunning female Red-tailed Comet © Andrew Whittaker

The magical Rufous-throated Dipper © Andrew Whittaker

Our explorations of the vibrant Andean foothills and rocky slopes were a great success, too, with finds like the Andean Flicker, Gray-hooded Parakeet, Buff-breasted Earthcreeper, Cream-winged Cinclodes, Maquis Canastero, Subtropical Dorodito, Rusty Flowerpiercer, Black Siskin, the endemic Bare-faced Ground Dove, Tucuman Mountain Finch, and White-browed Tapaculo.  

The next day, we crossed the spectacular pass of El Infiernillo to enter the starkly contrasting desert, dominated by towering Saguaro cacti. We were greeted by Burrowing Parakeets as Andean Swifts circled above the sandstone cliffs. Here we located two endemics, Monte Yellow-Finch and Steinbach’s Canastero, plus White-winged Black-Tyrant, Gray-hooded Sierra Finch, and Rufous-banded Miner. A productive stop offered superb looks at the endemic Sandy Gallito and White-throated Cacholote. We drove on to our plush hotel among the secluded vineyards of Cafayate, where we enjoyed a scrumptious meal. Owling that night gave us mega looks at the stunning Chaco Owl.

The magnificent Chaco Owl © Andrew Whittaker

The following day took us to the breathtaking geological features of Las Conchas and the famous Garganta del Diablo—the Devil’s Throat—with its resident Peregrines. Gradually we entered the lush Andean foothills, where birding in the delightful cool rewarded us with a plethora of cool birds, among them the Rufous-bellied Mountain Tanager, Zimmer’s Tapaculo, Rock Earthcreeper, Spot-breasted Thornbird, Scribble-tailed Canastero, and Black-backed Grosbeak. We arrived in Salta with time to chill out in our cozy lodge.

An action-packed final two days followed, when we explored lush Yungas and montane forest festooned with epiphytes and cactus. Two near-endemics, the Red-faced and Yungas guans, obliged, as did a pair of incredible Giant Antshrikes. Other delights were the Dot-fronted Woodpecker, White-barred Piculet, Plumbeous Black-Tyrant, striking Fulvous-headed and White-browed brushfinches, Rusty-browed Warbling Finch, Moss-backed and Yungas sparrows, Pale-legged Warbler, Rust-and-yellow and Fawn-breasted tanagers, Andean Slaty Thrush, and Golden-winged Cacique.

The male Giant Antshrike © Andrew Whittaker

On our final evening, we found the mega-rare Buff-fronted Owl: WOW! Justifiably, this was voted the top bird of the tour by the participants.   

I thoroughly enjoyed sharing northern Argentina’s wildlife with you, and really hope we cross paths again on one of my many exciting worldwide VENT tours!

Meanwhile, happy birding to you on our simply amazing planet!

Abrazos from Brazil,

Andy       

SEVEN TOP FAVORITE BIRDS VOTED BY THE GROUP

1. BUFF-FRONTED OWL
2. GIANT ANTSHRIKE
3. ANDEAN CONDOR
4. BLACK-FRONTED PIPING-GUAN
5. RED-TAILED COMET
6. RUFOUS-SIDED CRAKE  
7. BLACK-BODIED WOODPECKER, STRANGE-TAILED TYRANT, YELLOW CARDINAL, SCIMITAR-BILLED WOODCREEPER, and WHITE-BROWED TAPACULO—a five-way tie!

A complete list of the birds recorded on our tour can be found at: ebird.org/tripreport/471611  

Photo Gallery.

Description for the next departure of this tour.

Andrew Whittaker's upcoming tour schedule.