VENT. Papua New Guinea Highlights 7/12/2025-7/27/2025

ebird.org/tripreport/394271

Seven intrepid travelers and I began our Papua New Guinea adventure in the capital, Port Moresby, after flying in from Brisbane, Australia. It was going to be a big first day with a trip to Varirata National Park on the cards. PNG's only national park certainly didn't disappoint, and we kicked off the day in style, marveling at the raucous and extravagant males of the Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise assembling right above us in the beautiful early morning. We explored the lovely clearings and forest edges of the park and hiked a short distance along one of the forested creeks, finishing at the fabulous viewpoint looking back towards Port Moresby. We recorded almost 60 species during a very full morning and early afternoon. Highlights included a splendid male Growling Riflebird posing well, Crinkle-collared Manucode, a curious Barred Owlet-Nightjar, the poisonous Hooded Pitohui, hulking Blue-winged Kookaburra, great views of several fruit-dove species, cute Black-faced and Frilled monarchs, Barred Cuckooshrike, a friendly White-faced Robin, and a roosting Barking Owl. Leaving the park, some roadside birding revealed a singing White-bellied Whistler, as well as Brown Quail, Pacific Baza, Rainbow Bee-eater, and Lemon-bellied Flycatcher. We made our way back to the very comfortable Airways Hotel, thoroughly satisfied with our first day in PNG.

The curious Barred Owlet-Nightjar showed very well for us © Max Breckenridge

We managed to sneak in an hour of birding on the grounds of the Pacific Adventist University the next morning before our flight to Kiunga. Wandering Whistling-Ducks were plentiful, and roosting Nankeen Night-Heron, Black-backed Butcherbird, Gray-headed Munia, and several Australasian Figbirds were well received, plus a nice camp of Spectacled Flying Foxes. After a smooth check-in at the often hectic domestic terminal in Port Moresby, we were on our way to the steamy lowlands of Kiunga and the mighty Fly River. Early the next morning we boarded our long boat in the pre-dawn light and began motoring up "The Fly" for a full day out on the backwaters and in the flooded forests of this remote region. We had a fantastic day, enjoying excellent birding from the boat along the tranquil Elevala River, and some tough but rewarding expeditions into the muddy forest it bisects. Pigeons and parrots were plentiful, with great looks at the much-desired Sclater's Crowned Pigeon (two pairs!) and the remarkable Palm Cockatoo. The kingfishers made us work for them, but our industrious local guide (Glen) worked hard to get us great looks at the stunning Common Paradise-Kingfisher and secretive Hook-billed Kingfisher. The highlights were many and varied, and we ended the day with a wonderful trip back to Kiunga in the late afternoon light, where we witnessed a mass spawning event of thousands of Stoneflies skimming over the surface of the Fly River.

The highly secretive Hook-billed Kingfisher was a great find near Kiunga © Max Breckenridge

From Kiunga, we traveled north by road towards the mining town of Tabubil, at the base of the Star Mountains. This is a remote region of Papua New Guinea that we have not visited for some time, so it was exciting to return and seek out a variety of new species in the lush hill forests here. One of the highlights of our time involved a lengthy stakeout for the wonderful Salvadori's Teal, which eventually showed well along the raging torrent of the Ok Menga River. We also had several views of Torrent Lark (although mostly in flight), numerous Torrent Flyrobins, and two pairs of Little Ringed Plovers. Another of the most wanted species in this area is the Shovel-billed Kingfisher, which also required some work but finally resulted in close views of this cryptic, crepuscular, forest kingfisher with an over-sized grosbeak bill! Birding along Henry's Road was enjoyable, with great looks at White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo and singing Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo; a large flock of tiny Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrots, plus a pair of Yellow-capped Pygmy-Parrots; and "whoop-ing" Magnificent Riflebird, Moustached Treeswift, and Mountain Peltops.

The following day we ventured out along the Telefomin Road in the Landcruisers, and although the birding was quieter than anticipated (probably due to the unusually sunny weather), we still picked up several great species and enjoyed stunning scenery along "The Hindenburg Wall"—a dramatic karst cliff line towering over the forests below. Some of the birding highlights included the strange Pesquet's Parrot, a lovely pair of Black-winged Monarchs, shy Gray-green Scrubwrens, Rufous-backed Fantail, great looks at Mountain Kingfisher, Greater Lophorina, Capped White-eye, Island Leaf Warblers, and a female Carola's Parotia.

The striking Hooded Butcherbird © Max Breckenridge

Departing Tabubil, we returned to Kiunga for our charter flight the next day. We bid farewell to the lowlands for the pleasant climes of Tari and the fabulous Ambua Lodge. The birding around Ambua and along the Highlands Highway to Tari Gap is always good, and this year was no exception despite continued logging pressure. The availability of fruit is particularly crucial for birds in PNG, and it appeared to be a good season around Ambua. A pair of the rare and nomadic Spotted Berrypecker were two of the first birds we encountered at the lodge and stayed faithful to the same tree for the remainder of our stay. Other good birds seen around the lodge during our stay included a surprise female Blue Bird-of-Paradise at close range (!), fabulous male Greater Lophorina, the blue-eyed Lawe’s Parotia, Buff-banded Rail on the lawn, a female MacGregor’s Bowerbird, Fan-tailed Monarch, Black-mantled Goshawk, and the resident Great Woodswallows that continued to feast on the abundance of moths attracted by the lights. Each day we ventured uphill from the lodge by bus and enjoyed several great sessions along the Highlands Hwy below Tari Gap. The change in altitude is stark as you creep up the hill here, and we did very well with some of the classic highland forest species, as well as a few surprises: alien-like King-of-Saxony Bird-of-Paradise; machine-gun sounding male Brown Sicklebill showed well; robins were well represented with White-winged, Garnet, Black-throated, and Blue-gray all seen well; Regent, Brown-backed, and Sclater’s whistlers; a pair of the scarce Gray Thornbill; stunning male Ribbon-tailed Astrapias; gorgeous Plum-faced Lorikeets; Red-collared Myzomela; yodeling Belford’s Melidectes; a pair of the erratic Eastern Crested Berrypecker; and a wonderful encounter with a Blue-capped Ifrita.

The monotypic Blue-capped Ifrita © Max Breckenridge

After another quick and pleasant charter flight we were soon in the highland city of Mount Hagen. Our transfer whisked us uphill to the rustic Kumul Lodge, where the cool air and renowned bird feeders greeted us. We spent our first afternoon around the lodge enjoying the more confiding birds such as Brehm’s Tiger-Parrot, Belford’s Melidectes, Smoky Honeyeater, Papuan Island Thrush, Large Scrubwren, several impressive adult Ribbon-tailed Astrapias, male Brown Sicklebills, and a wonderful sighting of a Stella's Lorikeet.

The following day we started in the village of Kama, where Lesser Bird-of-Paradise made us wait but eventually behaved. Fortunately, we had a spectacular view over the valley, and a steady stream of good birds came our way as we waited for him to show. That afternoon we spent a very enjoyable stationary session at Murmur Pass, where we watched the birds come to us at another beautiful viewpoint over a clearing. Males of several species of bird-of-paradise showed well, including Stephanie's Astrapia, Brown Sicklebill, and King-of Saxony, plus Loria's Satinbird; the strange Wattled Ploughbill even put in an appearance!

Stunning Stella's Lorikeet from the feeders at Kumul Lodge © Max Breckenridge

We had a smooth, albeit delayed, transfer to Port Moresby the following day and eventually found ourselves back at the lovely Airways Hotel for a celebratory final dinner.

Thanks are in order for all the local contacts without whom this tour would not be possible: Leonard, Samuel, Glen, John, and Wilson; all the staff, drivers, and security; the office staff at VENT, particularly Penny for her tireless efforts coordinating a complex tour; and of course to you, the participants.

Barking Owl © Max Breckenridge

A complete list of the birds recorded on our tour can be found at: https://ebird.org/tripreport/394271

Photo gallery.

Description for the next departure of this tour.

Max Breckenridge's upcoming tour schedule.

ITINERARY

Day 1: Monday, July 14th

AM: Fly BNE-POM

PM: Airways Hotel, Port Moresby

Day 2: Tuesday, July 15th

AM/PM: Varirata National Park

Day 3: Wednesday, July 16th

AM: Pacific Adventist University

PM: Fly POM-UNG, Kiunga

Day 4: Thursday, July 17th

AM: Boat trip - Fly River and Elevala River

PM: Kwatu and Fly River

Day 5: Friday, July 18th

AM: Kiunga-KM17

PM: Tabubil

Day 6: Saturday, July 19th

AM/PM: Ok Menga Hydro Intake and Henry's Road

Day 7: Sunday, July 20th

AM/PM: Telefomin Road

Day 8: Monday, July 21st

AM: Drive Tabubil to Kiunga

PM: Charter flight UNG-TIZ (Tari), drive to Ambua Lodge

Day 9: Tuesday, July 22nd

AM/PM: Highlands Highway below Tari Gap and Ambua Lodge

Day 10: Wednesday, July 23rd

AM: Tari Gap

PM: Highlands Highway below Tari Gap

Day 11: Thursday, July 24th

AM: Ambua Lodge, charter flight TIZ-HGU (Mt Hagen)

PM: Drive to Kumul Lodge

Day 12: Friday, July 25th

AM: Kama Village and Kumul Lodge

PM: Tomba and Murmur Pass

Day 13: Saturday, July 26th

AM: Kumul Lodge, drive to Mt Hagen

PM: Fly HGU-POM (Port Moresby)

End of the main tour.