West Texas: Cibolo Creek Ranch

Vermilion Flycatcher © Ricardo Battistino/Macaulay Library

A wonderful introduction to southwestern birds and landscapes while based at the beautiful Cibolo Creek Ranch, one of Texas’s finest getaway destinations.

Encompassing a vast area, the region we know as “West Texas” is larger than many U.S. states. Stretching from El Paso on the west to the Pecos River on the east, this is a handsome country where the birds and wildlife are often more visible than people. Geographically, it bears a resemblance to other parts of the Southwest, yet the combination of plateau limestone uplifts, ancient volcanic ranges, palisade rock formations, and broad desert grasslands gives the region a distinctive brand.

Designed exclusively for the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology’s Chairman’s Council, participants on this short trip will experience the bold landscapes, birds, and other wildlife of West Texas. Based out of the luxurious Cibolo Creek Ranch, near Marfa, we will spend three days exploring the Chihuahuan Desert, grasslands, and a “sky island” mountain range—the defining features of the West Texas landscape. Hosting this trip are Ian Owens and Mary Guthrie from the Lab of Ornithology. Guiding our activities in the field are Barry, Lyon, Brian Gibbons, and Brad McKinney from Texas-based Victor Emanuel Nature Tours.

Our visit is sure to produce encounters with an exciting mix of birds associated with the Southwest and Rocky Mountains. Early October coincides with the fall migration period, a time when southbound birds mix with an impressive array of resident birds and lingering summer breeders. Birds are abundant at this time, and we have chances to see tantalizing species such as Zone-tailed Hawk, Scaled and Montezuma quail, White-throated Swift, Vermilion Flycatcher, Acorn Woodpecker, Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay, Loggerhead Shrike, Canyon and Green-tailed towhees, Rufous-crowned Sparrow, Lark Bunting, Hepatic Tanager, and many others.

While birds will be the focus of our daily field trips, this program also emphasizes general natural history including geology, mammal watching, botany, and stargazing. The mammal viewing can be surprisingly good, with chances for Coyote, Bobcat, Collared Peccary, Pronghorn, and Mule Deer.

Situated at the foot of the Chinati Mountains, Cibolo Creek Ranch promises a wonderful ranch-style retreat. Offering luxurious accommodation, excellent cuisine, and ready access to birds, the ranch is an ideal destination for a Chairman’s Council trip. Every guest room is designed to capture the style and spirit of the dramatic history of the ranch. Each room has been individually designed and uniquely furnished according to traditional Mexican architectural style and includes spacious verandas and Saltillo tile floors, Mexican and Spanish antiques, down comforters, hand-stitched quilts, painted tin retablos, vintage lamps, bath amenities, and adobe fireplaces. The ranch grounds are a tantalizing draw, particularly for morning and afternoon birding excursions.

We will visit different parts of the ranch over two days in search of birds. Two springs adjacent to the lodge are an irresistible draw for residents and migrant birds alike, while less visited water sources and isolated groves of trees on other parts of the property are to be checked as well. On one morning we will visit the Davis Mountains and Davis Mountains State Park. The Davis Mountains are a true “sky-island” and host a variety of habitats and birds not available to us at the ranch. Ponderosa pine, alligator juniper, and a variety of grasses and other trees support a regime of birds we will not previously have seen.

Finally, while this trip promises many memorable natural history experiences, it is also a social event—a time to see old friends, learn about recent news from the Lab, and simply enjoy a great West Texas retreat.

Excellent accommodations and cuisine; light physical demands; warm to mild conditions expected with low chances for rain.

Zone-tailed Hawk © Ronnie Reed/Macaulay Library