Southeastern Brazil: Best of the Atlantic Forest 10/20/2025-11/6/2025

https://ebird.org/tripreport/426842

After two weeks of birding Southeastern Brazil, we tallied nearly 400 species. A stunning 140 were endemic to the Atlantic forests of Brazil and adjacent Argentina and Paraguay. While we were thoroughly chilled in Intervales at the Pica Pau House, a fire on the second night certainly chased the cold away for a few hours. In Ubatuba the much-threatened rain largely held off, though we did have a couple of quiet mornings for bird activity at both locations. Finally, at Itatiaia National Park the weather mostly worked out for us, save one frigid rainy day up at elevation along the Agulhas Negras road forcing us to return on a much nicer day that proved quite successful—cleaning up several of our missing birds. While we dodged traffic leaving Sao Paulo and entering Rio, our travels were largely smooth, thanks to Carlos.

Starting in Intervales State Park with the charming brothers Gerson and Betinho as our guides, we stopped by the restaurant on our first afternoon. The feeders made it hard to pull ourselves away, but we needed to settle into the Pica Pau House, where we would stay for the next six nights. Nestled at the edge of the woods, the lodge provided a wonderful base for our explorations of Intervales. So many common birds around the edges and second growth kept us busy our first morning. A highlight was a beautiful male Blond-crested Woodpecker that was working over a small snag and the ants that were living inside. Through the course of our stay, the Pileated Parrots that fed on the fruit tree just off the back porch of the lodge were a daily challenge to find, camouflaged amongst the green leaves of the tree. The big marsh's resident Red-and-white Crakes made us return time and again before finally revealing themselves to us. But each visit produced many other sightings, so we never left empty-handed, even when the crakes didn’t show. Fork-tailed Flycatchers, thornbirds, tyrannulets, and most memorably the Robust Woodpeckers all put in appearances for us in the marsh or around the edges. A couple of treks up the Carmo Road were very productive, allowing us to observe Giant, Tufted, Spot-backed, and White-bearded antshrikes on our visits. At one point we were listening to Giant and Tufted antshrikes when a Black-fronted Piping-Guan clumsily flew overhead; we didn’t know where to look! After those great sightings, we encountered one of the rarest birds of the Atlantic forest. Hearing tapping in the forest, I glimpsed a red crest as a large woodpecker hammered away. When it lifted its head enough for me to see, I knew what it was, but I wanted Rapha to confirm. Rapha, Rapha! RAPHA! I urged him to check out the woodpecker, and he confirmed. We were looking at a female Helmeted Woodpecker, our prize among prizes, not just for the day but for the entire trip. Antbirds and flycatchers filled our lists from our outings on Carmo Road. The endemic Cinnamon-vented Piha that Gerson and Betinho located was a great find. The Rusty-breasted Nunlet was another great but brief encounter up there.

A Robust Woodpecker trying to distract us from the Red-and-white Crake in the marsh

An afternoon drive to the Purple-crowned Plovercrest lek was filled with many great sightings. The Bare-throated Bellbird bonking away was certainly a fantastic observation, and the Hooded Berryeaters were vocal but a little more demure about showing themselves this day. As soon as we were out of the car Rapha heard the Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin, but that would have to wait, as Betinho was chasing down the calling Plovercrest, so named for the single spike feather jutting off the top of its head like a Northern Lapwing crest from Eurasia. After we got scope views of the stunning little hummingbird, we were free to chase the Tyrant-Manakin, which was more of a challenge. Eventually we all saw the olive-green endemic. Finally, after a few days in Intervales the weather was warming and the birds were singing. Rapha’s bionic ear was superb at picking out the faintest chips or squeaks and luring in said bird moments later. Pygmy-Tyrants, Tyrannulets, Tody-Flycatchers, and Elaenias were all discovered in this manner.

The Red-and-white Crake finally appeared on our third try!

The entrance road provided a great afternoon of birding. Orange-breasted Thornbirds came out to the edge of the cattails allowing glimpses while the Blackish Rail called in the background. Gray-throated Warbling Finch and Orange-headed Tanagers were seen at another stop, the only time we encountered these open country birds. The White-eared Puffbirds were a little shy and moved off the road at our approach, but we had good scope views. We also had our single sighting Araucaria Tit-Spinetail in a little grove of the unique Araucaria trees. As the evening progressed, we made our way back to the spot. Along the dirt road was a special place to try to see the Long-trained Nightjar. As we were waiting for it to get dark enough to rouse the nightjar, Gerson and Betinho conjured up a Pavonine Cuckoo that we saw with the aid of the scope and a flashlight. Soon it was dark enough to hear nightbirds. Several Common Potoos screeched in the distance; Short-tailed Nighthawks gave their short, whistled call; and a female Long-trained Nightjar made a couple of brief flyovers. We gave up on the male and headed back to the restaurant for dinner but not before a Rusty-barred Owl couple made an appearance. The following night, the male Long-trained made several flyovers but never sat long enough for perched views. It’s worth mentioning that all our meals were enjoyed at the tiny restaurant just outside of the park. The feeders entertained us each day after breakfast and lunch, and at times we had to pry ourselves away from the action to chase birds of the forest. Ruby-crowned, Olive-green, Chestnut-backed, Burnished-buff, Golden-chevroned, and Green-headed are just some of the colorfully named tanagers we enjoyed there. Our final morning in Intervales was rainy, but we managed a great sighting of Rufous-capped Motmot and Atlantic Black-throated Trogon before the long drive to Ubatuba.

Our primary sites out of Ubatuba were Fazenda Angelim and Condominio Verde in the wet lowland forests surrounding Ubatuba. Both sites were rather slow during our visits, but we added many widespread lowland species that were new for us. For many of us the highlights were Folha Seca and Ninho Cabacica feeding stations. While Folha Seca buzzed with ten species of hummers, Ninho was full of hummers and tanagers and seedeaters. Frilled and Festive coquettes were a couple of the more stunning, if tiny hummingbirds. The lineup of 100 Double-collared Seedeaters was a sight to behold at Ninho, along with the Violaceous and Chestnut-bellied euphonias. After an excellent lunch we continued our birding down the road. Rapha produced a Buff-throated Purpletuft moments after we exited the car to everyone’s delight, and the bird even came down for a closer look—a rarity for this tiny endemic canopy inhabitant.

Crescent-chested Puffbird on a rainy morning near Ubatuba

Our evening arrival to Paraty allowed for a few minutes of birding down by the mangrove-filled waterfront of this charming colonial town. We found Bicolored Conebill and heard the Gray-cowled Wood-Rail easily in the failing light. Outside of Paraty we birded along the roadside and found our hoped-for Black-hooded Antwren along with several new birds. We had our best looks at the open country Toco Toucan and our only looks—after hearing them for days—at the Lemon-chested Greenlet. Dark-billed Cuckoo, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, and Rufous-tailed Jacamar put in appearances, too. A King Vulture was a majestic sight as it spread its wings and preened as we walked past.

Part of the amazing hummer show, Festive Coquette at Folha Seca

Our five nights at Ype Hotel, right in Itatiaia National Park, would be very productive. We eventually made two trips up to Agulhas Negras Road for the high elevation species after our first trip was too wet and cold to produce all the birds we wanted to see. The return trip, despite threatening thunder, was much better for birds and weather up at 8,000 feet. Starting birding was easy; at about 5:10 am the Great Kiskadees and White-eyed Parakeets made so much racket that one was forced to get up to discover what else was around—the answer: quite a bit! The hummingbird feeders were alive with Brazilian Rubys, Black Jacobins, Violet-capped Woodnymphs, and striking White-throated Hummingbirds. Strolling around the grounds were dozens of Dusky-legged Guans raiding the fruit trees of any fruit that was close to being ripe. Maroon-bellied Parakeets joined the raucous White-eyeds in making the early morning chorus, such that it was. Swallow and Magpie tanagers moved throughout the gardens along with the tiny Cobalt-rumped Parrotlets while the Blue-winged Macaw, the largest southeast Brazil parrot, squawked overhead.

One evening we ventured out from Hotel Ype at Itatiaia National Park. The sky was threatening as it got dark enough for our target. Then, as the lightning bugs started flying, so did real fireworks. Winds swirled and lightning was arcing through the sky. I thought we might need to delay this outing, but we were there and the rain was holding off. A few hoots we hoped would summon the Tawny-browed Owl from the forest with massive trees surrounding us—another Atlantic forest endemic we wanted to lay eyes on. After several minutes of silence save distant rumbling of the sky, we waited. So, Rapha tried a few calls of a small owl, and within seconds a huge form appeared on a branch nearly overhead. It was the beautiful and huge Tawny-browed Owl.

Tawny-browed Owl on a stormy night at Itatiaia National Park

The frigid and wet day up on Agulhas Negras allowed us to find the endemic toad easily; the thimble-sized gray toad has a riot of color on its belly, a fiery red and black pattern. Due to the rain they were easy to come by. What wasn’t easy to come by were the target birds in the rain, fog, and wind. While we enjoyed some great birds lower down like the exceptional Black-and-gold Cotinga, Black-capped Piprites, Serra do Mar Bristle-Tyrant, and Rufous-tailed Antbird, we would have to return. Fortunately, as we descended we left the rain behind, and we returned to the roadside marsh where we had relished our sighting of the Curl-crested Jays earlier in the day. Yellow-rumped Marshbirds, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Grassland Sparrow, and an exceptional trio of Streamer-tailed Tyrants all entertained us as the cloudy gray sky turned to night. Before it was dark our target flew overhead; the Giant Snipe was here and was displaying. We heard it several times and saw it in the spotlight a few times as it flew over the marsh displaying.

Our second day in the higher elevations found us targeting Rufous-backed Antvireo, which we encountered at our first stop when one popped up right in front of us, giving exceptional views. Another target was the endemic Green-crowned Plovercrest; we got a female, but that doesn’t quite cut it when you’re talking gorgeous endemic hummingbirds. We searched on and enjoyed Rufous-tailed Antbirds and Diademed Tanagers again. Near a beautiful tree fern a male Plovercrest perched right in front of us, but just for a split second before his rival chased him off and they both disappeared, never to be seen by us again. Relishing the delightful weather we drove higher and higher, eventually returning to the picnic site where we had a frigid picnic a couple of days earlier. Partly cloudy skies and mild temps made for a more enjoyable picnic this day. After lunch, a cooperative pair of Great Pampa-Finches sat up for scope views. We also had a very cooperative pair of Rufous-capped Antshrikes appear for us after struggling in the chill a few days earlier. Another bird that we got much better views of during Agulhas Negras 2.0 was the handsome Bay-chested Warbling Finch. The views in the highlands were spectacular this day, with blue sky and clouds overhead and clouds playing in the mountains around us and valleys below. With a long drive ahead of us, we had to pull ourselves away without a satisfying view of the male Plovercrest. As we walked back to the van, a small dark weasel meandered across the road a couple of times. This beautiful animal was a Grison, a rarely seen prize! Well, Rapha was determined to fix the missing plovercrest. Hanging his head out the window as we drove down, he heard one!  We got out, and to our amazement the bird returned to roadside flowers a couple of times giving us great looks at a stunning male. Carol’s Birthday bird! So now we were cleared for a happy return to Hotel Ype and a much-deserved meal, birthday celebration, and rest.

Green-crowned Plovercrest, another amazing endemic hummingbird

Ype had too many highlights to mention them all, but certainly the Swallow-tailed Cotinga pair that made a couple of early morning appearances would be near the top. Down the road the overlook entertained us one afternoon when a quick stop turned into an hourlong buffet of wonderful sightings. Yellow-eared Woodpecker was the rarest sighting, but the tanagers added lots of color. Swallow Tanagers at arm's length, and Gilt-edged, Burnished-buff, and Golden-chevroned tanagers filled our eyes with joy! A few whizzing bits of green and white turned out to be our only sighting of the Black-eared Fairy, a dazzling hummer that didn’t stay long enough.

One of many unbelievable tanagers we saw, Gilt-edged Tanager - all photos © Brian Gibbons

Our final morning found us in the marshes on the way to Rio. While it was hot and sunny we added a few new species like Chestnut-capped Blackbird, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, Copper Seedeater, and Rufous-fronted Thornbird. We then retired to our final Churrascaria for a great meal and some well-earned cold drinks. Thanks for traveling with Rapha and me on our fabulous Atlantic Forest tour. I hope to see you on another VENT trip soon, wherever in the world that might be.

A complete list of the birds recorded on our tour can be found at: https://ebird.org/tripreport/426842

Photo gallery.

Description for the next departure of this tour.

Brian Gibbons's upcoming tour schedule.

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