VENT. Southwest Pacific: Fiji & Samoa 8/14/2025-8/27/2025

ebird.org/tripreport/403362

Six well-traveled birders and I united at our hotel in Apia on Western Samoa ready and eager for a tropical getaway brimming with tantalizing endemics! We began our exploration of this part of Polynesia on the island of Upolu, the most-populated island in the Samoan group, but the best place to see most of the Samoan endemics. We were initially greeted by warm trade winds and a protracted downpour, but our first full day of birding was blessed with perfect conditions.

We started at the Malololelei Watershed Reserve, feeling wonderfully fresh at 2,000 feet, and with a fantastic view looking back over Apia. The birding here proved to be most enjoyable. Our first bird upon exiting the van was a glorious White-tailed Tropicbird circling over our heads. The tropicbird, along with White Terns and Brown Noddies, nests in the forests here, and was a welcome and regular presence overhead during our time in Samoa. The first passerines we noted were stunningly crimson Samoan Myzomelas, vociferous Eastern Wattled Honeyeaters, and Samoan and Polynesian starlings. Doves were well represented, with great views of Island Imperial-Pigeon, Metallic Pigeon, and the Samoan form of Crimson-crowned Fruit-Dove. White-rumped Swiftlets, cute Flat-billed Kingfisher, and the endangered Samoan Skink were also seen around the reserve clearing.

Samoan Myzomela © Max Breckenridge

Venturing into the forest nearby, it didn’t take long to find one of the prize birds of Samoa, the endangered Mao (a species of large honeyeater) singing its strange, swelling song. Nearby, a Samoan Flycatcher perched up beautifully, as did the lovely, lemon-colored Samoan Whistler. A little further down the trail, we inadvertently flushed an Eastern Barn Owl from its roost among some vines, and then locked onto several friendly Samoan Fantails, plus a less-amicable Pacific Robin of the Samoan form. On our way to lunch, at an excellent gallery cafe nearby, we had great looks at several Blue-crowned Lorikeets, as well as Polynesian Triller, Australasian Swamphen, and abundant Buff-banded Rails along the roadside. Our afternoon birding involved a decent walk through more open habitat along the rocky road to Lake Lanoto’o. We had great repeat views of a number of species, particularly Pacific Robin, Samoan Fantail, and Eastern Wattled Honeyeater. Returning to the van, we eventually had success locating our primary target, Samoan Triller, and although the views weren’t groundbreaking, it was a great end to a very successful first day in Samoa.

The next morning we returned uphill, to a different location, where almost our first bird of the day was the Samoan form of Royal Parrotfinch—perched right above the van! Here we also enjoyed improved views of Maos, pumping their tails like over-sized wagtails, and came across a magnificent fig tree covered in fruit and bursting with Many-colored Fruit-Doves! Before lunch, we did a brief circuit of the Vailima Botanical Gardens and adjacent grounds of the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. A very early flight the next morning, and a complete sweep of targets, were ample justification for a relaxing afternoon back at our hotel.

Flat-billed Kingfisher © Max Breckenridge

After flying from Apia and transferring in the Fijian city of Nadi, we made it to our beachside resort on the garden island of Taveuni still in time for breakfast! We had a restful day, with some partaking in some easy snorkeling, and an afternoon walk revealing a nice selection of some of the commoner local species—Vanikoro Flycatcher, Polynesian Triller, Fiji Woodswallow, Pacific Kingfisher, Sulphur-breasted Myzomela, Lesser Frigatebird, and Wandering Tattler.

The following morning was spent on the upper slopes of Des Veoux peak at almost 6,000 feet. This is Fiji's second-highest peak, and the forests here are home to a number of endemics. We birded downhill along the dirt road, which had recently been repaired. Windy conditions made it a little challenging, but we soon started to chalk up a respectable list—good views were eventually had of the striking endemic Azure-crested Flycatcher, while the local form of Fiji Island Thrush dashed across the road a number of times, Barking Imperial-Pigeons were doing just that, and cute Fiji Streaked Fantails, Fiji Shrikebill, Northern Wattled Honeyeater, and Polynesian Starling were all seen well. Making our way further downhill, we were blessed with a male Orange Dove perching up, plus two females. Several Red Shining-Parrots put on a great show, and a Fiji Goshawk perched right above the road as well.

Fiji Goshawk © Max Breckenridge

Due to a later flight out of Taveuni than originally anticipated, we found ourselves with a half-day free. It was decided that we seize the opportunity and make an expedition for the little-known Natewa Silktail that can be found on the neighboring island of Vanua Levu. A boat ride across the Somosomo Strait, and a jeep ride, got us to the tiny village of Karoko. Here the village chief graciously allowed us access to his forests and even led us to where the silktail had been previously seen. It felt like quite an adventure, but the going was quite pleasant, with a wide and relatively level track before us. Upon entering the forest we tried several spots to no avail. Just as we were preparing to admit defeat, a call was heard, and then, shortly after, a pair of Natewa Silktails shot in and perched up beautifully! This is a bird that fewer than a hundred birders have likely ever seen and which very little is known about—a truly exhilarating experience!

After a late arrival into Suva the previous day, we enjoyed breakfast at the wonderful Grand Pacific Hotel before heading into the foothills above the city. Birding in the vicinity of the FEA Tower Rd, we had our first looks at a number of new species. Much to my surprise, our first sighting turned out to be a magical male Golden Dove! While enjoying this fantastic pigeon perched up, several Duetting Chattering-honeyeaters tried to distract us with their loud calls. Further along the road, we enjoyed better views of Barking Imperial-Pigeons, multiple Masked Shining-Parrots screeching overhead, Vanikoro Flycatcher, a pair of cute Slaty Monarchs, numerous Western Wattled-Honeyeaters, and the local subspecies of Fan-tailed Cuckoo. Back down in Suva, we padded out our list a little by visiting the mudflats along Suva Point—white morph Pacific Reef-Heron being the highlight. In the afternoon, we made a targeted strike for an elusive endemic—Black-throated Shrikebill. We enjoyed birding among some wonderful scenery near the village of Navurevure, where Fiji Parrotfinch perched up nicely (and an immature bird almost had us thinking we were onto the poorly-known Pink-billed Parrotfinch). Several flowering coral trees were full of honeyeaters, myzomelas, and Collared Lories. Eventually we reached a nondescript section of road where it didn't take long to lock onto a singing Black-throated Shrikebill!

Fiji Parrotfinch © Max Breckenridge

The next morning out on the Namosi Road started a little damp, which kept the birds quiet, but eventually things dried out and we had some great birding. Highlights included a beautiful male Yellow-throated Fiji Whistler, a Fiji Bush Warbler that popped out of the bushes for us, cute Pacific Robin, several showy Fiji Streaked Fantails, and the prized endemic Chestnut-throated Flycatcher, which made us work for a few quick views. Later in the day we enjoyed great looks at Masked Shining-Parrot, Fiji Parrotfinch, and Vanikoro Flyatcher, while a couple of Fiji Island Thrushes called tantalizingly from dense cover but never showed.

Another two short flights the next morning had us landing on the island of Kadavu, where we practically walked straight off the plane and onto a boat that took us to the lovely Papageno Resort. We had a fantastic stay here for two nights, with the often-tricky Whistling Fruit-Dove being one of our first sightings. Just within the nearby forest, Kadavu Fantail, Slaty Monarch, Fiji Shrikebill, and the gorgeous White-throated Fiji Whistler all showed nicely. Around the grounds of the resort we enjoyed great looks at several stunning Crimson Shining-Parrots (some raiding the papaya orchard) and the curious Kadavu Honeyeater. We topped off our stay here with some outstanding snorkeling just off the beach from the resort—some of the healthiest coral I have seen anywhere.

Kadavu Honeyeater © Max Breckenridge

Our final day was spent enjoying another relaxing morning at Papageno before the boat trip back to the airport (where a pair of Masked Lapwings were added to our list) and one final flight back to Nadi. It had been a wonderful first tour for me to this region of the Pacific and enjoyed immensely by all!

A complete list of the birds recorded on our tour can be found at: https://ebird.org/tripreport/403362

Description for the next departure of this tour.

Max Breckenridge's upcoming tour schedule.

ITINERARY:

Day 1: August 17, 2025: (AM) Malololelei Watershed Reserve, Tiapapata; (PM) Lake Lanoto'o Rd

Day 2: August 18, 2025: (AM) Vaisagno, Vailima Botanical Garden; (PM) Apia

Day 3: August 19, 2025: (AM) Fly APW-NAN-TVU, Taveuni; (PM) Garden Island Resort

Day 4: August 20, 2025: (AM) Des Veoux Peak; (PM) Garden Island Resort

Day 5: August 21, 2025: (AM) Vanua Levu - Karoko; (PM) Fly TVU-NAN-SVU, Suva

Day 6: August 22, 2025: (AM) FEA Tower Rd, Suva Point; (PM) Navurevure

Day 7: August 23, 2025: (AM) Namosi Rd; (PM) FEA Tower Rd

Day 8: August 24, 2025: (AM) Fly SVU-NAN-KDV, Kadavu; (PM) Papageno Resort

Day 9: August 25, 2025: (AM/PM) Papageno Resort

Day 10: August 26, 2025: (AM) Papageno Resort; (PM) Fly KDV-NAN, Nadi