Taiwan 4/21/2025-5/5/2025

It was a pleasure to lead a very enjoyable trip through Taiwan after an extended hiatus between tours here for VENT. We had a great group of folks and a fantastic local leader, Kuan-Chieh Hung, or "Chuck," who really made the trip a very memorable experience. Below is a short account of our time spent exploring this endemic-rich island nation.

We assembled in Taipei, after flying in from various locations, with many of our group having already explored some of the city or planning to do so post-tour. After breakfast at our hotel overlooking Taipei and the Tamsui River, we headed for the Taipei Botanical Gardens. Taiwan in spring can be notorious for its unstable weather, but we enjoyed generally sunny conditions for the majority of the trip. This morning, however, was not one of those days, but we all braved the rain, eager for those first new birds of the trip. Unlike in parts of their wintering range, Malayan Night-Herons are remarkably confiding and obvious in Taiwan at this time of year. We found several here, including birds on nests, along with good looks at Swinhoe's White-eyes, Taiwan Barbet, Gray Treepie, Light-vented Bulbul, and a Black-naped Monarch actively feeding. We managed to escape the rain by heading to the coast at Xucuogang, where our target bird, Chinese Egret, was seen before getting off the bus! Here we also had our first taste of a variety of shorebirds in breeding plumage, staging and feeding up between migrating from Australia and Southeast Asia before heading on to Siberia. Before we left, a pair of handsome Taiwan Scimitar-Babblers were kind enough to pop up on a bush next to the bus. After lunch, we visited some parkland around the Shimen Reservoir, with our first bird being a beautiful roosting Collared Scops-Owl, courtesy of some good gen from one of Chuck's contacts. As we were trying to get an angle on the owl, a pair of Taiwan Blue-Magpies did their best to drag our attention away, and so we duly obliged. A striking bird, and our third endemic for the day, which was shortly followed by the fourth—a lovely Taiwan Whistling-Thrush that posed briefly.

Taiwan Blue-Magpie looking very regal - Max Breckenridge

The next two days were spent exploring the various elevations of Dasyueshan from our base on its lower slopes. This is one of the two famous highland birding sites in Taiwan (along with Alishan), and it put on a great show for us during our time here. Our first morning was highlighted, pre-breakfast for some, by great looks at the skulking endemic Rusty Laughingthrush. Heading uphill, post-breakfast, we had more good luck, quickly getting onto the often scarce Taiwan Yellow Tit—a wonderful, bright yellow ball of feathers with a funky crest. New birds started to come thick and fast, and Chuck soon pulled another rabbit out of the hat, when he locked onto a small covey of Taiwan Partridges feeding downslope—a great find that would save us a lot of time sitting in hides later on! The rain came and went during our time on Dasyueshan, but it made for wonderful scenery as clouds wisped over the verdant forested slopes. As is often the case, breaks in the rain can be followed by birdy sessions, and that often proved true for us here. Arriving at one of the main carpark areas mid-morning, we were greeted by the sight of not one but two glamorous male Swinhoe's Pheasants feeding in the open! Our pheasant luck continued upon arriving at the road's highest point (KM52) where we were immediately ushered over by some other birders to a pair of Mikado Pheasants feeding happily at their feet! Despite their friendliness, this can be a tough species to encounter, as they only inhabit good forest above 6,500 ft. A whole host of specialties also exist at these higher altitudes on Taiwan, with most of them having being designated full endemic status in recent years. Taiwan Bush-Warblers eventually revealed themselves, as did Taiwan Shortwing after serenading us with its elfin song, whereas White-whiskered Laughingthrush and Collared Bush-Robins hopped around the edge of the carpark unconcernedly.

Mikado Pheasant allowed unbelievably close views at Dasyueshan - Max Breckenridge

From Dasyueshan, we began winding our way further south and then further inland towards Chingjing and the nearby Hehuanshan Pass. Along the way we stopped in at the scenic Baxianshan Forest area, where we scored with the localized endemic Chestnut-bellied Tit showing well. Brown Dipper and Plumbeous Redstart were added bonuses here. Further south around the town of Puli we enjoyed a fantastic lunch before making a visit to one of the local Buddhist temples. Here, the much desired local form of Maroon Oriole eventually made a spectacular appearance! Later that day, near our hotel up in the hills above Puli, some of us managed views of the often tormenting Taiwan Bamboo-Partridge, as well as Taiwan Liocichla and Brown-headed Thrush feeding before migrating on to Japan or Korea. 

The high altitude pass of Hehuanshan beckoned the next morning with hats and gloves quickly donned upon arrival with a bitter wind blowing. Fortunately, a short walk downhill got us out of the wind, and the clear skies soon made it feel much warmer. Gorgeous Taiwan Rosefinch obliged, as did a friendly Flamecrest, Yellowish-bellied Bush-Warbler, and a pair of tiny Eurasian Wrens. Further along, a roadside stop quickly yielded the sought-after Alpine Accentor (an isolated outlier on Taiwan), and our final stop before heading back downhill provided close views of a pair of Taiwan Fulvettas and more Taiwan Rosefinches. From here, we had a pretty solid drive down to Taiwan's southernmost city, Hengchun, which would be our base for the night before taking the ferry to Lanyu Island the following morning.

White-whiskered Laughingthrush are pleasantly confiding at most alpine sites in Taiwan - Max Breckenridge

After an enjoyable crossing, featuring good numbers of Wedge-tailed and Streaked shearwaters, as well as several Bulwer's Petrels, we were soon disembarking on Lanyu Island. A distinctly different experience from the rest of Taiwan, we had a fantastic time searching the humid forests here among volcanic outcrops for some of the island's specialties, as well as appreciating some of the local indigenous culture, butterflies, and excellent food. We scored with all the desired targets on our first afternoon: Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, Whistling Green-Pigeon, Ryukyu Scops-Owl, and the dramatic Black Paradise-Flycatcher.

Before departing the next morning, we enjoyed close looks at Pacific Swifts, Blue Rock-Thrush, and a mixed flock of shorebirds along the rocky shoreline while having breakfast. The return crossing was rougher, but equally birdy, and included an unexpected (if quite distant) Red-footed Booby and several Oriental Pratincoles. Back on the mainland, we had a relaxed afternoon around Hengchun, with some local birding allowing us close looks at more Oriental Pratincoles, as well as Oriental Skylark and numerous Styan's Bulbuls.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana is a really stunning bird - Max Breckenridge

We began the next day by making our way back north, stopping along the way for wonderful looks at Black-naped Oriole and less than perfect views of Barred Buttonquail. Then after a lovely cafe lunch, we birded some nearby rice fields where we enjoyed fantastic looks at a pair of Greater Painted-Snipe and some stunning Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. Moving more towards the coast, we attempted a valiant stake-out for a no-show Chinese Crested Tern, before getting stuck into some impressive flocks of shorebirds near Budai. Highlights on the reclaimed salt flats, now being managed to improve shorebird feeding habitat, included the graceful Black-faced Spoonbill (a conservation success story), innumerable Pied Avocets and Whiskered Terns, smart Curlew Sandpipers, Siberian Sand-Plover, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Kentish Plover sheltering a tiny baby under its wings, a close Long-toed Stint, and several striking Spotted Redshanks in breeding plumage. 

From the coast we headed inland for our last taste of upper elevation birding in Taiwan around Alishan. We enjoyed two wonderful nights at the Firefly Homestay where several species of owls were recorded, as well as a fantastic sighting of a Taiwan Giant Red-and-white Flying Squirrel while spotlighting nearby. Our full day on Alishan was a great success, with perfect weather and an almost clean sweep of some of our remaining targets. Starting lower down, we had great looks at the tiny Taiwan Cupwing, scarce Taiwan Barwing, and a songful Snowy-browed Flycatcher. Up at Tataka, Southern Nutcrackers joined us for lunch, and a final little hike added Golden Parrotbill and good looks at Taiwan Fulvetta, Taiwan Bush-Robin, and a pair of Reeves's Muntjacs. 

Flamecrest inhabit pine forest at upper elevations and can be tricky to see close - Max Breckenridge

Before departing the next day, another pre-breakfast walk afforded us views of the shy Dusky Fulvetta, as well as a beautiful White-bellied Green-Pigeon and the locally endangered Russet Sparrow. A lovely walk through some bamboo forest on the lower slopes of Alishan was highlighted by amazingly close views of several White-tailed Robins—typically a very unobtrusive species across the rest of its range in Asia. From Alishan, our plan was to head towards Douliou to search the nearby forests hoping for a recently-returned Fairy Pitta; however, some news on the grapevine led us to another site a short drive south. Upon arriving, a significant number of parked cars at the end of a forested road hinted at something interesting. A short walk further on and we found ourselves at an almost comical scene with tens of photographers waiting, giant lenses pointed in one direction. Not ten minutes later, a flurry of camera shutters alerted us to the presence of a stunning Fairy Pitta perched up in full view! 

The next morning, with our target firmly in the bag, we enjoyed a leisurely session around Huben where we finally clocked onto our last possible endemic—a singing Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler. We also visited the infamous Fairy Pitta Cafe nearby where the lovely staff were incredibly generous and welcoming. Bidding farewell, we birded a couple more sites nearby, eventually getting acceptable views of some skulking White-browed Laughingthrushes and a pair of impossibly cute Vinous-throated Parrotbills in some riverside grasses. From here, we began the drive back to Taipei, stopping for a few more final shorebirds, before arriving back at our hotel in the mid-afternoon. We enjoyed one final meal together that evening, at a fantastic, yet very understated Japanese establishment conveniently close to our hotel. It was another reminder of the wonderful variety of food we experienced in Taiwan, and a very pleasant way to end what had been a really enjoyable trip to a country with so much to offer.

Fairy Pitta is a true stunner, especially with views like this - Max Breckenridge

A complete list of the birds recorded on our trip can be found at:

https://ebird.org/tripreport/355495

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ITINERARY:

Day 1: April 23, 2025: (AM) Taipei Botanical Gardens, Xucuogang; (PM) Shih-men Dam, Dongshi

Day 2: April 24, 2025: (AM) Dasyueshan – 23KM, 35KM; (PM) Dasyueshan – 50KM

Day 3: April 25, 2025: (AM) Dasyueshan – 13KM, 23KM; (PM) Dasyueshan – 43KM, 50KM

Day 4: April 26, 2025: (AM) Dasyueshan – 13KM; Basianshan; (PM) Puli Dizang Temple, Qingjing

Day 5: April 27, 2025: (AM) Hehuanshan; (PM) Hengchun

Day 6: April 28, 2025: (AM) Ferry to Lanyu Island; (PM) Lanyu Island

Day 7: April 29, 2025: (AM) Ferry to Hengchun; (PM) Kenting NP, Pingtung

Day 8: April 30, 2025: (AM) Linhousilin Forest Park; (PM) Tainan, Budai

Day 9: May 1, 2025: (AM) Budai, Nankunshen; (PM) Xiding, Guanghua

Day 10: May 2, 2025: (AM) Guanghua, Alishan Youth Centre; (PM) Alishan – Tataka

Day 11: May 3, 2025: (AM) Guanghua, Qianzailiao Bridge; (PM) Liujia Beishikeng

Day 12: May 4, 2025: (AM) Huben, Yunlin; (PM) Hsinchu, Taipei