May 15, 2020

David Ascanio has been leading tours for VENT for over twenty years. He is one of our most skilled and popular leaders. His guide to the birds of Venezuela was recently published. As a single parent, he has done an outstanding job of raising two sons. He has made wonderful contributions to ornithology and has played a crucial role in conservation. I am delighted that he will be spending a month at Warbler’s Roost. — Victor Emanuel

A VENEZUELAN BIRDER ON THE BOLIVAR PENINSULA

My first week: May 2–8, 2020

By David Ascanio

American Avocet © Barry Zimmer

At noontime, I was in the suburbs of Houston, where I had been stranded for the last six weeks. I took a cab to Galveston, where I met with Bob and Jean Warneke, friends and neighbors of Victor Emanuel, at the Bolivar Flats. Victor, my boss and friend, had offered to let me stay in his house until I can return home.

As I approached the ferry terminal in Galveston, I learned that Bob was waiting there to help me with my heavy piece of luggage. After I dropped the duffle in Bob’s vehicle, he asked me to take the ferry as a pedestrian, and he would show up later with the luggage. As I boarded the ferry, the magic of the Bolivar Peninsula appeared in front of me. Dozens of Laughing Gulls followed the ship; many Brown Pelicans remained at the concrete wall of the Galveston ferry landing; a pair of Black Terns showed up; and Royal and Forster’s terns came to the sides of the ferry’s bridge. My jaw dropped; this was my very first exposure to wildlife in the last six weeks! On the other side of the bay, Jean waited for me. With a special gift (a face mask that she had made), she drove us the short distance to Warbler´s Roost, the house that Victor has raved about for so many years.

As I walked up the stairs to this wonderful retreat, I could not contain my feelings. I was immediately transported to the time when I first saw an egret flying at close distance. I might have been about 14 years old when I visited a ranch on the plains of Venezuela; to reach the lodge, one had to take a boat ride across a wetland. I could not close my eyes. Egrets, herons, caimans, night-herons, skimmers, and terns were moving along the marsh. It was a celebration of life. It has been almost 40 years since that very first encounter, and it remains fresh in my memory!

Black Tern © Greg Lasley

Back in the present, I was witnessing, once again, the beauty of the waterbirds. Seeing terns, gulls, and herons flying in front of me transported me back to that very special moment in my childhood, as if no time had passed. I was speechless, and I could not believe what was happening in front of me. Feeling as if I had come to nature’s heaven, I tried to digest as much as I could. Although I noticed some subtle differences in the bird composition, the egrets, terns, and gulls were among the same species I had seen back in my home country, but the beauty of the place was enhanced by packs of the adorable American Avocet and the elegant Black Tern.

As if being on the Bolivar Flats weren’t enough, a wonderful series of memorable events unfolded during my first week here. As I settled in at Warbler’s Roost, I was invited to dine with Bob and Jean, as well as Winnie Burkett and her husband, David. Keeping the needed distance, they arranged three separate tables, and with Ruby-throated Hummingbirds buzzing around their property, as well as raucous Great-tailed Grackles flittering in their backyard area, we enjoyed a wonderful sunset, an almost perfect full moon, tasty meals, and good conversation about birds, geopolitics, geology, and conservation.

Later in the week, I was invited by Bob to go birding at the beach, another emotionally impactful experience for me. As we walked on the wet sand of the beach, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by dozens of terns, astonishing Ruddy Turnstones in breeding plumage, packs of Sanderlings standing mostly on one leg, groups of Short-billed Dowitchers, a few Marbled Godwits, a lone Reddish Egret, wonderful Dunlins, and Laughing Gulls everywhere. Along the road, on the way back home, we added a Common Nighthawk perched atop a fence post, Black-necked Stilt, a Clapper Rail walking across the road, and pairs of Mottled Ducks.

Smith Oaks Rookery © Barry Zimmer

On another day, I accompanied my good friend Richard Gibbons, Houston Audubon’s Conservation Director, as he checked on some infrastructure projects in High Island. This provided a great opportunity to bird Oilfield Road, Boy Scout Woods, and Smith Oaks bird sanctuaries in High Island. We started with egrets, spoonbills, and herons, and later added Bay-breasted and Black-and-white warblers in Boy Scout Woods, as well as Swainson’s Thrush, Yellow-throated Vireo, and Acadian Flycatcher. The day ended on the trails of Smith Oaks Sanctuary with views of Red-eyed and Warbling vireos, Bay-breasted and Blackpoll warblers (in breeding plumage, something we never get to see in South America), Yellow-billed Cuckoo, and Ovenbird. There is an astonishing walkway being built that I encourage you to visit once it is finished. This walkway will take you from the ground level to the canopy of several trees and allow you to see birds foraging in the canopy, at eye level! Before we headed back, we visited the platforms facing the rookeries and admired the nests of Great and Snowy egrets, as well as the beautiful Roseate Spoonbill.

Life is all about keeping a good dynamic and a sense of a routine. Even in this rough time, I have been running four to five days a week. On the Bolivar Peninsula, I have chosen a route from Warbler’s Roost to Fort Travis and return, with detours to the Jetty and the beach contiguous to it. During that transect I also count birds, and I have noticed that every day offers something new—a flock of 100+ Short-billed Dowitchers, or a tree frog, or even a gorgeous snake. Later, I immerse myself in translating the latest Birds of Venezuela into Spanish, as well as editing photos and working on VENT tours for 2021 and 2022. Also, Warbler’s Roost has a water drip that has allowed me to see Yellow Warbler, Summer Tanager, and Northern Cardinal (I heard from Victor that in mid-April they saw as many as 8 species of warblers at this water drip, all in a single day!).

All of these experiences have made me feel at home away from home. But it would not be complete without the charm, help with the groceries, and presence of Bob and Jean Warneke, Winnie and David Burkett, and Edith Watson. Of course, we have taken all the health precautions and followed the mask and social distancing recommendations, but even with that in mind, my first week on the Bolivar Peninsula has been one of my most glorious birding experiences in Texas and the United States.

As my first week has come to an end, I have rounded-up several eBird checklists compiling 103 bird species seen. Every morning has opened with unbelievable sunrises—some with a rich, bright golden sparkling sun, others with a shadow of red, orange, and pink, and even some gray clouds. All of it has reminded me of the power of Planet Earth and the need for introspection, by all of us, about how we treat mother nature, in the present and in the future.

David’s bio and upcoming tour schedule

Bolivar Sunset © Ben Reynolds